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need.. some few pointers.. in what i should need..
im plannin to get place racing mounts for the p10.. i see that jgycustoms and i called them and they said they are 400.. does any1 kno where i can pickup this up from another place...

i want to get this done before june.. and its going to be my first swap ive done before... in a nissan..

i have 2 grand.. so 400 for jdm engine 10:1 .. from soko.. 400 for mounts... 200 for top speed headers... 1000 left

any1 kno any other essentials i should get before doing this swap.. any help would be well apprieciated.. thanx..
 

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you can get some prothane mounts or ES inserts much cheaper than the 400. I would recommend that to save some money and used the saved funds on some s4's. If your swapping the motor you should do a clutch job, amd you might want to throw a light weight flywheel in there. Fidanza's are a good deal. a stock clutch would be fine for bolt ons. you need to swap the fan switch coolant temp sensor from your USDM motor, you should probably swap your USDM intake manifold to keep you smog equipment, depending on the smog laws. If you plan on getting pully's it is much easier to install them when the motor is out of the car. Check you CV boots, you may want to replace you axles at this time since you will be pulling them out anyways. You can get them from most auto part store with a lifetime warrenty(if you havn't already). Another item that that is good to replace is the oil seal on the driverside axle for the transmisson. They usually go bad when you pull out the axle. The passenger one usually stays intact. Redline MTL, MT-90, or Shock proof is a good upgrade for gear oil to refill the tranny. You may have to pull the oil pan offof the JDM motor to bang out the dents, so you will need some RTV sealant gasket maker to reinstall the pan, for removing the pan you just unbolt and then I like to use a puddy knife to cut the original sealant loose. When you get the 10:1 you should check the head serial number with the Official Compression Post that is somewhere here on the forum. Oil, filter, coolant are easy givens. BTW, dont get mixed coolant just get regular coolant and estimate the 50/50 coolant/water mixture yourself. Replace all the vaccum lines. other than that it is just like ever other car.... let me know if you have any questions during the swap or when you have problems when you are done...
 

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why pay $400 for mounts? Get the prothane mounts, just as good but 1/8 the cost.
 

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get some inserts for the mounts 400 is a lil rediculas for mounts IMO.

youll need a new water pump and i would recommend chaning the bearings. soko never honors thier warrenties so make sure that beast is good to go.

oh and be prepared to change the fuel rail also since thats the way they pull the motors, ive never geotten one from soko that the railis in good shape.
 

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is your stock bottom end useable?
850 + 150 shipping for sr16ve, 80 bucks for DE headgasket, 20 bucks for oil feed lines and attachments, 200 for top speed headers, 100 for prothane mounts, 150 for msd rpm switches, 300 for clutch and 150 left over. swap the sr16ve head over to the stock DE block with new headgasket, tap engine for oil feed line, intstall clutch and header primary as well as mounts. iirc, miko said that only a 98-2002 sr20 bottom end could be used with the ve head though, as it has an oil passage that the VE head utilizes. run DE maf,tps, and ecu. boom, sr20ve with 16ve cams. i'd say do that personally. plus you're in the chi-town area; mike jez would probably hook you up w/labor.

you could also add an exhaust (250-500+) and intake manifold spacer(100), and for a grand total of 2250-2500 (parts ONLY) you would have a SLEEPER p10. it's be faster than a s4 powered de with better gas mileage and vvl.
 
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