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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Problem #1: Leaking at the oil filter.

Anyone else have this problem? On my old DE, all I had to do was hand tighten the filter. On the VE, hand-tightening it resulted in a nice leak at the filter. Yes, I'm using the correct filter. Today, I gave it another 3/4 of a turn. Hopefully that will solve the problem, but I'm somewhat concerned that it will be a total PITA to take off.

Problem #2: Loud, strange buzzing.

When I turn off the car, a loud, buzzing emanates from the area around the middle to passenger side footwell. It sounds like a pager set on vibrate, only it's disturbingly loud. It stops on it's own after several seconds (long enough for me to get out and see if the noise was coming from the engine compartment. Taking the key out of the ignition makes no difference.

This only manifested itself after I wired up the VVL. However, I'm not sure it's related. It's not the solenoids, which I know sound like clicking, and it's not the relays, which I have mounted near the battery. When I popped the hood and tried to determine the source, it definitely seemed to be eminating from the firewall area. Any ideas?
 

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Dan_93SER said:
Problem #2: Loud, strange buzzing.

When I turn off the car, a loud, buzzing emanates from the area around the middle to passenger side footwell. It sounds like a pager set on vibrate, only it's disturbingly loud. It stops on it's own after several seconds (long enough for me to get out and see if the noise was coming from the engine compartment. Taking the key out of the ignition makes no difference.

This only manifested itself after I wired up the VVL. However, I'm not sure it's related. It's not the solenoids, which I know sound like clicking, and it's not the relays, which I have mounted near the battery. When I popped the hood and tried to determine the source, it definitely seemed to be eminating from the firewall area. Any ideas?
I'm quite sure you have a bad ground. If it's coming from the firewall it is probably from the relay next to the ECU... which is not good. I would double and triple check to make sure those ECU ground wires are properly connected and haven't shaken loose. Fix it or you'll be stranded.

Steve
 

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Dan_93SER said:
Problem #1: Leaking at the oil filter.

Anyone else have this problem? On my old DE, all I had to do was hand tighten the filter. On the VE, hand-tightening it resulted in a nice leak at the filter. Yes, I'm using the correct filter. Today, I gave it another 3/4 of a turn. Hopefully that will solve the problem, but I'm somewhat concerned that it will be a total PITA to take off.
Which filter are you using? I seem to recall you bought a couple cheap ass filters and dino oil to use for a couple hundred miles before switching to synthetic. Perhaps the o-ring on the filter is defective or difficient?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
autoxer7 said:
Which filter are you using? I seem to recall you bought a couple cheap ass filters and dino oil to use for a couple hundred miles before switching to synthetic. Perhaps the o-ring on the filter is defective or difficient?
I used up the first two NAPA filters already, and my Nissan filter does this too. Let's see if maybe I just wasn't tightening them enough.
 

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Just to double check, the VE uses the same filter as the '95 - '01 SR20. I had a slight oil leak that I thought was either the pan or the drain gasket. I resealed the pan and used a new drain washer. After letting the RTV dry for over a week (I was out of town), I changed the filter and put oil in. I saw a small puddle on the floor this morning. I sure hope I didn't tighten the filter all the way. :mad:
 

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Dan_93SER said:
The grounds are still nice and tight. Any other ideas? It doesn't make the buzzing noise every time, and you're right, it's coming from right around the ECU area.
The buzzing noise is a classic case of a bad ground. I believe there are two ECU grounds near the firewall plus the MAF ground on your car... you should have a total of three ring connectors in that area grounded. If that's okay then look in the FSM to if there are other grounds associated with the ECU.

Steve
 

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use the 65f00 from nissan. mine doesnt leak at hand tight. it sounds like one or both of your relays are clicking over repeatedly after you shut off the car. maybe put a hand on the relays and see if you feel them. assuming they are on the pass. side of the car. thats where mine are. if not, ignore that statement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright, it's the ECCS relay (the one right next to the ECU) that's buzzing. The two ring grounds in the engine compartment look good, and the MAF ground is fine too. I looked in the FSM, and couildn't find any other grounds for the ECU.

I did notice that the negative battery terminal might have been rubbing against the CAI, so i fixed that. Could that have been the problem?
 

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You can use a 15208-65F00 or a slightly longer 15208-9E000 Nissan oil filter on the VE.
Also, do you hear the buzzing at any other time like startup, driving, etc..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, the buzzing only happens when I turn off the car.

The battery's negative terminal rubbing against the CAI wasn't the culprit.

The hookup of the VVL is the only thing that's changed since this problem showed up. I'm using the standard MSD rpm switches and Radio Shack automotive relays. Looking at this system, the only real link to the rest of the the car's electrical system, and thus the ECU and ECCS relay, is the connection from the MSD switch to the signal wire off the coil, right? So if there was a bad ground in the VVL activation "system", would this cause the problem?

Perhaps I don't have it hooked up in the optimal fashion. I've got all the 12V power and switched power wires for the relays and switches coming right off the positive terminal of the battery, and the grounds for the MSD switches connected to the negative terminal. Would it be better to get the power from somewhere else and/or ground the switches in another place?
 

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Dan_93SER said:
No, the buzzing only happens when I turn off the car.

The battery's negative terminal rubbing against the CAI wasn't the culprit.

The hookup of the VVL is the only thing that's changed since this problem showed up. I'm using the standard MSD rpm switches and Radio Shack automotive relays. Looking at this system, the only real link to the rest of the the car's electrical system, and thus the ECU and ECCS relay, is the connection from the MSD switch to the signal wire off the coil, right? So if there was a bad ground in the VVL activation "system", would this cause the problem?

Perhaps I don't have it hooked up in the optimal fashion. I've got all the 12V power and switched power wires for the relays and switches coming right off the positive terminal of the battery, and the grounds for the MSD switches connected to the negative terminal. Would it be better to get the power from somewhere else and/or ground the switches in another place?

You might have a ground loop. I have my RPM stuff grounded to one of the plugs on the driver's side shock tower. Most of those are threaded. Have you tried switching the ECCS relay with another one? Any of the green ones will work.
 

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Dan_93SER said:
I've got all the 12V power and switched power wires for the relays and switches coming right off the positive terminal of the battery, and the grounds for the MSD switches connected to the negative terminal. Would it be better to get the power from somewhere else and/or ground the switches in another place?
First thing I would do is ground to the chassis and not the neg battery terminal. As Eric suggested you might have a grounding loop problem. Give me a call today/tonight... I should be available either today or tomorrow to take a look and we can compare our setups.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dammit. I tried grounding it to the engine and that didn't solve the problem.

I did find out that when I disconnect the tach signal to MSD switch wire, the buzzing stops.

I think maybe the box I've got all this in too small. Maybe the wiring is jammed in there too tight.
 

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I would redo that wire and see what happens. Did you solder it, or use a crimp connector? With important wires like that, I like to solder it and use heat shrink tubbing, or tape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
eric96ser said:
I would redo that wire and see what happens. Did you solder it, or use a crimp connector? With important wires like that, I like to solder it and use heat shrink tubbing, or tape.
I don't know electrical wiring well, so this I'm hoping to learn a little here.

I used a T-splice connector to tap into the wire on the coil. Then I ran the white wire from one of the MSD switches to this connector. I then tapped into the white wire with another T-splice and connected the other MSD switch's white wire to this one. Hope that makes sense.

All these connectors are crimped on. What advantage is there to soldering them, in relation to how this may be causing my problem. I understand the durability aspect of soldering the connections, but I'm not sure how this would help if the crimped connections are well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
For the FAQ...

My buzzing ECCS relay problem was solved by having the power to the MSD switches moved from a constant 12V source (positive battery terminal) to a switched 12V source (air bag fuse in the driver's side fuse box). I kept the power to the relays connected to the constant 12V.
 

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Dan_93SER said:
For the FAQ...

My buzzing ECCS relay problem was solved by having the power to the MSD switches moved from a constant 12V source (positive battery terminal) to a switched 12V source (air bag fuse in the driver's side fuse box). I kept the power to the relays connected to the constant 12V.
Strange, my MSD boxes and relays are wired straight to the battery, and my ECCS relay is quiet.
 

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eric96ser said:
Strange, my MSD boxes and relays are wired straight to the battery, and my ECCS relay is quiet.
Eric, isn't your VE in a B14? I believe the ignition system on the B13 is different (never owed a B14, sorry :) ) and has separate coil and ignitor. My best guess is on the B13 we're getting some type of capacitive discharge back thru the coil (rpm signal wire to MSD switches) that connects to the ECU.

I had the same buzzing problem on with my car when I installed the switches (it took looking at Dan's problem to remind me) and I quickly solved it giving the MSD boxes a switched 12v input.

Incidently, Dan wired his MSD boxes without any input from me... I'm saying we came across the same problem independently.

Steve
 

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Yeah, it could be something with the B13 ignition system. Good job of figuring it out. :)
 
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