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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to try out the SE-R at Sacramento Raceway tonight and see what it could do.

I will cut to the chase now. The wheelhop was sooooo bad I thought I was going to bust my tranny again! I gave up after the 2nd run where it hopped worse.

WHat the hell is wrong with my car! I have all 4 ES mounts, good tires, nothing obviously worn out, but this thing hops real bad, even in water. Needless to say this is incredibly frustrating!!!

I ran a 16 flat on round 1 and 16.7 on #2 due to terrible launches. The only way i can launch is as if I am starting from a stoplight. Ease it in and floor it. Not only am I mad, but it doesnt look good for nissans in general down there... Slower than an SOHC civic...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RT wasnt too terribly bad, but as you can see by my 60ft the car spent more time shaking itself apart rather than accelerating. Note I engaged the clutch at 4k and it jumped all over.
 

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The Serbaninator
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40 is WAY too high. I never run anything higher than 35 in street tires, during normal driving. At the track I drop 'em to 29.
 

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sleeper
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40 is too high for street driving as you'll probably find the center tread more worn than the edges. I generally use around 35cold/38hot for everyday driving and even that is a bit on the high side.

For drag racing though, you need to be down to around 20-24 psi. No higher than 24. Also, the most effective parts to eliminate wheel hop are the control arm brace and control arm bushings.
 

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Breakin necks 1 at a time
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Damn man,I made the same mistake my first time with my classic.Ran at normal pressure and went like 15.8 dropped it down and kept droping it till I was running constant 14's,around 20-24 like everyone said,that's your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The dampers are AGX/GC combo with 375# springs up front. I will try the pressure drop test.

Control arm brace???

I know I need the bushings for sure. Which are the best front ones???

Thanks for all the tips!!!

The fact that I fubar'd the launch and still pulled a 16 flat over my 510's 16.9 with a good launch shows the car is a potential mid-low 15 or even a high 14 second car.
 

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sleeper
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worldcrafter said:
i totally disagree, the brace did little to nothing for my wheelhop problems.
Hmmm.... that's interesting. You must be getting some deflection or something elsewhere in the "system". Generally, the soft control arm bushings allow the control arms to move around a lot which kinda feeds the wheel hop. That's also why motor mounts help; the rocking of the motor back and forth adds to the wheel hop. It could your suspension or tire setup.
 

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<>< Jesus is the Answer
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Lower your tire pressure to start.
Adjust your AGX's to full soft up front and full stiff in the rear to keep pressure on the front wheels with take off.
Rev to like 3500 and SLIP the clutch. Do NOT dump it. That is the quickest way off the line I have found without wheel hop.
PRACTICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE! You cant be good at everything your first time out. Be willing to mess up and learn from it. There is really no other way.
 

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DBA/IT
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spdracerUT said:
Hmmm.... that's interesting. You must be getting some deflection or something elsewhere in the "system". Generally, the soft control arm bushings allow the control arms to move around a lot which kinda feeds the wheel hop. That's also why motor mounts help; the rocking of the motor back and forth adds to the wheel hop. It could your suspension or tire setup.
The motor has always felt loose ever since I purchased the car. The only thing that helped greatly with motor movement was the prothane mounts, and even after installing those, my motor still felt loose. I didn't change the control arm bushings, that could be a problem, though I doubt it is the problem. The prothanes seemed to have loosened up quite a bit from when I first installed them. I tried the agx's at 3/8 at the trick iirc, that seemed to help alot. I don't wanna be driving around town with that setting though.
 
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