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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone.

Let's talk about the best setup possible, to get maximum power and reliability from VE motor.
So, the best setup for the money I see now:

- SR16VE/SR20VE block
- 8 counterweight crank 2.0 crank
- 20DE/20VE rods
- 16VE pistons
- 20V HEAD, ported just a little
- SR20Turbofreak springs & retainers
- N1 Cams
- N1 intake Manifold, N1 Throttle body
- A really big MAF, such as Z32 or Q45
- flow-free intake (WAI or CAI)
- SR20Turbofreak exhaust maniufold
- 3 inch flow-free exhaust

Any thoughts on that?
 

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263 Posts
Similar setup to what I'm going to be running shortly, only difference is I'm sticking with my current phase 1 VE head and I'm shaving 1mm off the piston domes on the 16VE pistons. Oh and I'm going with Franklin Stage 4 cams ;)
 

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404 Posts
I too will compare with the motor I've got, we possibly get away with the SR16VE pistons due to having 98 available at the pump in NZ:

- SR16VE/SR20VE block - Yes
- 8 counterweight crank 2.0 crank - Yes
- 20DE/20VE rods - Yes
- 16VE pistons - Yes
- 20V HEAD, ported just a little - 20VE head ported a bit
- SR20Turbofreak springs & retainers - Std springs & retainers
- N1 Cams - Franklin Stage 4s
- N1 intake Manifold, N1 Throttle body- Maybe one day - bored out plenum & port-matched runners at the moment
- A really big MAF, such as Z32 or Q45 - RB25DET waiting to go on
- flow-free intake (WAI or CAI) - soon to have custom pipe & Apexi Power Filter as per Freak's recommendation
- SR20Turbofreak exhaust maniufold - Port-matched Fujitsubo VE headers
- 3 inch flow-free exhaust - Tomorrow, yes

For all the talk about valve float, there's a bunch of VE motors in NZ getting regularly raped to 9K and beyond on standard springs & retainers & I've only heard of one case of valve float. Still like to change for safety's sake one day. You forgot to add bigger injectors & valves, balancing & lightening into the mix :)
 

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we possibly get away with the SR16VE pistons due to having 98 available
remember that the 98 octane you have in NZ and Aus, is measured in RON. in northamerica we use the PON factor for measuring octane. So our 94 PON is the same as your 98 RON.
 

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Luke Pighetti
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3,018 Posts
Hi everyone.

Let's talk about the best setup possible, to get maximum power and reliability from VE motor.
So, the best setup for the money I see now:

- SR16VE/SR20VE block
- 8 counterweight crank 2.0 crank
- 20DE/20VE rods
- 16VE pistons
- 20V HEAD, ported just a little
- SR20Turbofreak springs & retainers
- N1 Cams
- N1 intake Manifold, N1 Throttle body
- A really big MAF, such as Z32 or Q45
- flow-free intake (WAI or CAI)
- SR20Turbofreak exhaust maniufold
- 3 inch flow-free exhaust

Any thoughts on that?
That's what I would guess... I am by no means an engine builder though.

Andreas Miko talked about selling pistons that raised comp to 12:1. I thought the SR16VE pistons made for something along the lines of 14.4:1. I haven't done the math myself, I just saw it in a thread.
 

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VE-T tester
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1,146 Posts
Are you going for an all motor setup? I think the sr16 piston in the 20ve block is the best way to go, just because. If you really want to swap a DE bottom end in it that is great too. You just have to have the right pistons so you don't get interference.

sr16 with a DE bottom end will rev really high with a lot of power, but you don't need a DE bottom end really. There is a lot of hating on the crank, but I have heard of no cranks failing.

You have a well thought out setup. Get the sr16ve and swap the crank, girdle and rods from a DE. You will have a high revving monster I would guess.

OR you could really go all in. sr16ve with a stroker crank setup. 9k rpm with valve springs and n1 cams with tons of bottom end!

I am just going to shut up now.
 

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Jah Rastafari
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7,677 Posts
Here is the best 2L setup in my opinion.

SR20VE 20V
N1 cams.
N1 Throttle body ( because 20V is Drive By Wire )
4 into 1 header from SR20turbofreak
aluminum flywheel
nice HP clutch
Greg V Pully
Electric water pump

If you have a little xtra cash put 12 to 1 pistons in the motor and have the valve notches made 2mm deeper and 1 mm wider.

This setup will net 220-225 WHP.
 

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165 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Andreas, finding the 20V engine is hard, or expensive in case of new engine from the factory. I will spend time to calculate the option to buy 20V head only, valves, and head internal components which differ from standard SR16/20VE head, it must be a way cheaper. What's why I ask for installing 20V head on DE/VE bottom.
If I find it cheaper, the group buy of this stuff will be a way to go.
 

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Professor Dingbat
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5,543 Posts
There is a lot of hating on the crank, but I have heard of no cranks failing.
We pulled apart a SR20VE a few months ago and the main bearings were all shredded.....
 

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VE-T tester
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1,146 Posts
ya the 20v is the way to go, but eh. the 16 is easy to get ahold of and cheaper. Hell, you could probably get a 1.6 and do the stroker setup for the same amount of money.
 

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so i understand that if i have a 10:1 jdm engine and i have a VE


it would be a good idea, to deepen the notches on the DE's pistons and change the DE's crank, rods and pistons to my VE block??
 
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