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I drive a race car again!
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Discussion Starter #1
:) OK folks, start flinging the banana peels.
Here's my entry in to the B13 rear STB challenge. Made up of all black iron pipe material bought at my favorite speed shop, Lowe's Home Improvement (can't seem to find the turbo section at my local store though :D ).
Pics are up at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/racerlinn
I'll be testing it out this weekend at our last autocross of the year. The design is an obvious knockoff of Joel Ward's much nicer set-up, but it only cost me about $8 in materials
 

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Veritas
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Steve;

Well, she's not purty...but if it works, then so be it. Keep us informed as to how it holds up while dodging cones this weekend. I'm jealous: You get to autocross this weekend....while my SE-R sits in the garage, the victim of the dreaded 'Red Battery Light', aka, the alternator is shot. It happened while autocrossing last weekend.

Again...keep us posted.
 

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Racerlinn said:
:) OK folks, start flinging the banana peels.
Here's my entry in to the B13 rear STB challenge. Made up of all black iron pipe material bought at my favorite speed shop, Lowe's Home Improvement (can't seem to find the turbo section at my local store though :D ).

ROTFLMAO

dude, im dying over here!!!!! oh **** oh ****!!!!LOL
( must hold in intestines!!!)

They have the car parts dept labelled improperly in my local Lowes store too!!
 

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/// God Speed! ///
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Ghetto Rear STB

Racerlinn did you make the stb out of Plumbing pipe or ridged elec. pipe? I work @ a Electric supply house and could get material alot cheaper than most people could. Another Question, where the STB meets the strut tower, did you drill a hole in the strut tower and put a nut on the back side, where the spring is or is the STB tightened down to push out on the Strut towers?


Darren
 

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now on the West side!
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Looks like a coat hanger rod :D

let us know how it turns out! we're all for ingenuity after all, hehe.
 

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I drive a race car again!
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1,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Using the same concept Joel started with, here's the ghetto version:
(1) 1/2" x 36" threaded black iron pipe (gas pipe) - $3.61
(2) 1/2" x 1 1/4" black iron pipe bushing (1/2" internal thread, 1 1/4"
external) - $2.88
(1) 1/2" x 1" long pipe nipple - $0.39
(1) 1/2" x 1/2" coupling - $0.48
(1) piece of rubber or gasket material - $0
Total Cost - $7.36
Screw one 1 1/4" bushing on to the 36" pipe BACKWARDS so that the large face with the 1/2" internal thread is on the outside edge (this is what will press up against the shock tower). The bushings are generally not threaded completely through so by going through the back side it will not thread in very far.
Screw the 1/2" pipe nipple in to the back of the other 1 1/4" bushing (in the same manner through the "back" of the bushing). Again, it will not thread in very far. Attach the other end of the pipe nipple to the other end of the 36" pipe using the 1/2" coupling. Use a piece of rubber or gasket material on the flat ends of each bushing to keep it from sliding on the bare metal of the sides of the shock towers.
Thus, the assembly ends up being: rubber - bushing - pipe - coupling - nipple - bushing - rubber.
The entire assembly ends up being 39" long - slighlty less than than distance between the shock towers.
It attaches to the car in the same manner as Joel's: hold and center the bar between the sides of the shock towers near the top. Use a a set of pliers (channellocks work best) and "loosen" the coupling and nipple of the assembly. As you "loosen" it the bar will expand and wedge itself between the towers.
 

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Im trying this!!

it better work!!, damn it!! :D :cool:
 

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I drive a race car again!
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1,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Not available in Alaska and Hawaii.
No dealers please.
Your mileage may vary.
Sale ends soon.
Offer not valid with any other coupon.

If it does work, send me a check for $1,000,000.
No, make that $1,000,000,000....
:p
 

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Racerlinn said:
Not available in Alaska and Hawaii.
No dealers please.
Your mileage may vary.
Sale ends soon.
Offer not valid with any other coupon.

now thats funny!!!!!

oh, yeah..........
 

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I drive a race car again!
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1,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Here's the scoop:
Ran on a grippy concrete pad this weekend on a very long, road course style autocross course. Fast time of the day was around 62 seconds by a tube frame mod mod car, 1st and 2nd places in STS ran around 68 and 69 seconds, and I came in 3rd with a best time of around 70.
The rear bar did not make any miraculous changes in handling (I personally don't think that any rear STB is going to make huge changes to a car). Mainly it did stiffen the rear end some. I like to run the car loose so I ended up dropping my rear tire pressures about 2 degrees to compensate for the little bit of extra oversteer that it seemed to cause. All in all, a worthy $7.36 investment. I do think I am going to take it back off and paint it though...:)
 

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I've apparently missed some past threads here-

Steve- can you tell me how this is actually mounted to the strut towers?

I have all the parts in the garage (I think). Just not sure how to actually mount this to the car.

Thanks,
Brian
 

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I drive a race car again!
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1,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Brian,
It simply "tensions" in between the shock towers - it is not bolted on. By rotating the small coupler and nipple the bar will expand and wedge between the towers. Just make sure you are centered in the same place on both towers. Take a look at the picture link in my original post on this thread.
 

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Thanks. After a "test fit", i thought that must be what was going on. I am still looking for suitable gasket material, but I am interested to see if this makes any difference on the street at all.
 

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I drive a race car again!
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1,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
On the street I have noticed that the rear suspesion seemed a little "louder". It does not seem to feel all the different on the street, but the rear end does seem to sound different. Not bad, just different, if that makes sense...:rolleyes:
 

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A nice coat of Rustoleum metallic aluminum is drying on it right now (oh how I love telecommuting).

Now, if I decide to go back paint "Linn's Ghetto Racing" on the bar, how much do I owe you for licensing fees? :D
 

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I drive a race car again!
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1,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I think:
"Racerlinn Ghetto Performance Products and Home Improvement Supplies Racing Inc." might fit!:D

As far as licensing, I quote Dr. Evil;
"One billion dollars...."
 

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Well, I just bought an aluminum flywheel, so I am a little short. How about 61 cents, to be paid at some point in the distant future?
 

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Ok. I have recreated and installed the Racerlinn ultra-high performance rear strut tower brace, and here are my impressions.

1) Construction - piece of cake. They hardest part is locating the correct pieces in Lowe's, and that still took all of 5 minutes. Putting it together was easy. I recommend a little of your favorite grease on all fittings (helps with adjustment later on). I also took the time to paint mine. Rustoleum aluminum looks great.

2) Installation - piece of cake. Locate a good spot, and jam it in there. I tapped mine in with a mallet and used tool box liner material on the ends of the bar. Give it a little twist to sort-of preload it, and voila. Done.

3) Performance - fairly subtle in normal driving. I had a secondary rattle somewhere in the back that I could hear when driving down rough roads. That is now gone, so obviously the back in a little stiffer. I have no idea what kind of difference this would make on the track. Since its made out of iron, its pretty darn heavy, which isnt good, but at least it should help improve the distribution.

4) Overall - definitely worth the $7.81! Are there better ways? Definitely. Are there more cost-effective way? Doubt it.
 
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