[96SERTurbo]

I have a rattle that I hear at idle. It is very light, but it goes away when the clutch pedal is in. Sometimes it will seem to correct itself, but if I clutch in and then out, it returns. It developed about a week ago. The clutch and transmission were worked on about 3 months ago when I rebuilt the motor. A friend of mine suggested it's normal for some noise on a lightened flywheel (I have a JWT flywheel). It could also be a loose pressure plate or flywheel bolt I suppose. They were all torqued to spec with threadlocker. Maybe the noise trims when I clutch in because the pressure plate is taking up slack; I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts. Thanks in advance!

 

[t bags]

next day off drop the trans and change that tob before she gets stuck in gear

 

[topdog781]

O **** because mine is doing the same thing. Some one else told me that it's because I changed from and organic disk to a 4 puck set up though.

 

[96SERTurbo]

I let a car buddy look at the car today. He is much more experienced with many cars. He doesn't think it's the throwout bearing; he thinks it's the input shaft bearing. Anyway, for now I will monitor noise level and work on it if it gets worse.

 

[92serturbo]

loose flywheel bolt

 

[t bags]

O sh*t because mine is doing the same thing. Some one else told me that it's because I changed from and organic disk to a 4 puck set up though.

all if not most of the aftermarket tob that come with perf clutches will rattle..just slap in an oem unit and the problem is solved.to me the oem unit looks and feels bulkier

 

[96SERTurbo]

I find it hard to believe it's a flywheel bolt for a couple of reasons. First, I put those on with a torque wrench and red threadlocker following the torque steps. Second, I talked to another buddy and he added the following: The noise ceases IMMEDIATELY when the clutch pedal is in. If it were an input shaft or a bolt rattle, it would fade slower after a second or two. The assembly doesn't stop moving when the clutch is in. It has to slow down. However when load is applied to the TOB, it is instant load. I don't know what TOB is in there. Honestly, it's something I should have done when I was in there. I was up against time and had a whole motor to swap. It might be an ACT TOB or an OEM. I will find out form the original owner when I can and post it up.

 

[SkyShepherd]

Bringing this thread back, I was curious how things worked out.

Running a similar setup, with an ACT HD PP, Street and strip clutch disc, and lightened flywheel, with an OEM TOB. I recently pulled my transmission to address a similar sound; rattled pretty badly when idling (sounded almost like a badly running diesel) with the clutch pedal released (so the clutch engaged). Would cease when the clutch pedal was pushed (so the clutch disengaged). Running a fresh OEM TOB, so I knew that should not be the problem, although there was a bit more play on the shaft that the TOB rides on than I was expecting. I was also experiencing some fairly significant vibration at times during acceleration. These symptoms led me to believe the input shaft bearing(s) were suspect. Back to Greg V. to order replacement bearings...

Pulling the transmission, I did indeed find that the bearings exhibited excessive play (I could take the input shaft, shake it and replicate the knocking sound I was getting).

I went ahead and pulled the old bearings, which was pretty simple. It involved punching out a welch plug in the tranny case, then punching out the old bearing assembly. After, use the old bearing case to drive the new one back in place. Use sealant on the welch plug, and drive back in place. The other bearing required a 6" three leg gear puller. Then a trip to a local shop with the new bearing and input shaft, and $20 later it was pressed on with a 20 ton shop press. I popped out the old input shaft oil seal, and drove a new one in before reassembly of the tranny.

After reassembly of the transmission, the input shaft felt much better. Putting it all back together, I tested the remedy on the race track the next day. What I found was the vibration was gone, and the tranny was MUCH quieter, BUT... I still get the rattle to a certain degree; What happened?

What I believe the source of the noise I'm experiencing now is, is the ACT HD Street and Strip clutch disc; specifically the springs. From what I have read, these units have a tendancy to be noisy, and rattle, occasionally breaking springs. The only way to really verify this will be to pull the tranny (yet again), and replace the disc with a B15 disc. I believe this will cure the rattle for good.

Hope you were able to chase this down, or at least this thread will provide some help to someone else.

Darrin

Search parameters: ACT SS disc, street and strip, clutch, transmission, tranny, noise, rattle, knock

 

[Jedi_SR20det]

hey im also curious about this. i just changed my clutch disc with a ACT 6-puck sprung disc and i have a exedy stage 1 pressure plate that is still good. i put a new oem TOB and i get the same noise. rattling noise when im off the clutch pedal in neutral. what the hell could it be??

 

[Hasani's sentra]

I have a rattle that I hear at idle. It is very light, but it goes away when the clutch pedal is in. Sometimes it will seem to correct itself, but if I clutch in and then out, it returns. It developed about a week ago. The clutch and transmission were worked on about 3 months ago when I rebuilt the motor. A friend of mine suggested it's normal for some noise on a lightened flywheel (I have a JWT flywheel). It could also be a loose pressure plate or flywheel bolt I suppose. They were all torqued to spec with threadlocker. Maybe the noise trims when I clutch in because the pressure plate is taking up slack; I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts. Thanks in advance!

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