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i smell that whore.
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Discussion Starter #1
i installed a new timing chain tensioner, but the timing chain still rattles. i have also taken off the upper guide. what else could be causing this? is it the lower tensioner? if so, should i just start saving for a new engine, and about how long do you think i have on this one. at first i could hear the chain running up against the front of the chain side of the engine, but now it is making a cricket noise at idle, intermittently, like, not all the time. what do yall suggest i do. if the lower tensioner needs to be replaced, from what i've heard, it's best to just buy a new engine. is this true? someone set me in the right direction. thanks - jeff
 

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agent camel toe
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i have that same rattle..i have not changed the upper tensioner/ guide yet..if the labor for the lower is more than 500 than get a fresh jdm for 400 and drop it in..any pixx of the upper guide installation?
 

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i smell that whore.
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Discussion Starter #3
t bags said:
i have that same rattle..i have not changed the upper tensioner/ guide yet..if the labor for the lower is more than 500 than get a fresh jdm for 400 and drop it in..any pixx of the upper guide installation?
there is a sticky about removing the upper guide on nissanforums.com , might be on here too, i think it is. harris wrote it. anyone have any idea what is causing this?
 

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sleeper
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your chain may not be seated correctly on the timing chain tensioner. The two times I've switched cams/cam gears on my car, and I put the tensioner back on, the chain was half off of it. You might want to take off the valve cover and have a look.
 

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i smell that whore.
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Discussion Starter #5
spdracerUT said:
your chain may not be seated correctly on the timing chain tensioner. The two times I've switched cams/cam gears on my car, and I put the tensioner back on, the chain was half off of it. You might want to take off the valve cover and have a look.
well, i don't think that's it, when i took the valve cover off to take off the guide, everything looked straight, but then again, that was the first time i had ever taken a valve cover off of any car, so i really don't know what i'm looking for. if the chain wasn't seated correctly, couldn't it be down in the engine where i couldn't see it? if so, how would i go about turning the chain so i could get a look at the entire chain. thanks for your response- jeff
 

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May sound stupid did you make sure it released? Had to reach down with a screw driver on mine and release the hook that holds it retracted.
 

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ruby red harlem cruiser
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focus said:
May sound stupid did you make sure it released? Had to reach down with a screw driver on mine and release the hook that holds it retracted.
i believe once there's oil pressure, the tensioner hook releases on its own. still not sure how it happens, but it does.
 

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sleeper
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the tensioner automatically releases from the hooked position once it gets oil pressure. Look down at the tensioner to make sure the chain is all the way on it, and not just half on it. Think of it kinda like a gutter, and you want the chain in the gutter, not riding up on the edge.
 

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I've seen this happen before. The chain guide (the straight one) breaks at the bottom part of it, creating a rattle. I'm not saying this is the case with you. IMHO, if you're good at working with cars, I would just change the chain, tensioner and the two guides and be done with it. Also, there is no lower tensioner. There is only one tensioner for the chain. Whatever you do, good luck.
 

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My SE-L rattles on start up and then does the cricket noise until the car warms up then all goes back to normal. It has been doing this for almost a year now and hasnt caused any problems. I occassionally take the VC off and check the chain to make sure it is still tight and it always is. I removed the upper guide as well and still makes the noise. Its annoying, for sure, but I have learned to deal with it since it is only the first 3 minutes of driving it does anything. Also, I have replaced the tensioner and it still happens :confused: .
 

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i smell that whore.
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Discussion Starter #11
JRios said:
I've seen this happen before. The chain guide (the straight one) breaks at the bottom part of it, creating a rattle. I'm not saying this is the case with you. IMHO, if you're good at working with cars, I would just change the chain, tensioner and the two guides and be done with it. Also, there is no lower tensioner. There is only one tensioner for the chain. Whatever you do, good
luck.
well, like i said, this is the first time i have ever messed with it, so i don't think i'm a candidate for changing the chain, b/c i assume that requires the engine to come out, and if it comes out it's coming out to be replaced. what do you mean the "chain guide, the straight one"? the guide on the top, over the gears?

SlateBlueSR20 said:
My SE-L rattles on start up and then does the cricket noise until the car warms up then all goes back to normal. It has been doing this for almost a year now and hasnt caused any problems. I occassionally take the VC off and check the chain to make sure it is still tight and it always is. I removed the upper guide as well and still makes the noise. Its annoying, for sure, but I have learned to deal with it since it is only the first 3 minutes of driving it does anything. Also, I have replaced the tensioner and it still happens .
mine does it at startup, but then when i am releasing the clutch and it bogs a little, it rattles like hell. if i have the hood open, and pull in the throttle, it makes the noise around 1200rpm - ~1800-2k. i have no idea what it is, but it doesn't go away after it warms up.


thanks for yalls input, anyone else have words of wisdom?
 

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You don't have to take the engine out to change the chain. There are two plastic guides that hold the chain in place. The one that the tensioner pushes in the curved one, the one on the opposite side is straight. If you have the chance to look at your chain again, you'll know what i mean. Good luck.
 

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i smell that whore.
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Discussion Starter #13
JRios said:
You don't have to take the engine out to change the chain. There are two plastic guides that hold the chain in place. The one that the tensioner pushes in the curved one, the one on the opposite side is straight. If you have the chance to look at your chain again, you'll know what i mean. Good luck.
i may check this out on saturday. good lookin out.
 

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Low Budget Fun
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Somewhat of a thread highjack. I appologize.

Continuing with what SlateBlueSR20 said. What do you think the problem is if it only rattles for a few seconds right after a cold start? If I get the car warmed up out driving then run to a store for a few min and come back, it doesn't rattle when I start it. Any suggestions as to what to check out first?
 

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i smell that whore.
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Discussion Starter #16
today, the chain wasn't rattling at all. i guess it just took it about a tank of gas to stop. is this normal? if not, i'm not going to complain. in the write up i followed to replace the tensioner, it said the old tensioner would be "wimpy looking" in comparison to the new one, and if it wasn't to put it back because you have another problem. well, it was the same style tensioner, but now it isn't rattling. **** yeah. i guess i will start saving for some cams now. :biggthump
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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My chain was rattling, so I changed the tensioner, but I want to change the guides, as well. I will be removing the upper guide permanently.
With the chain removed, I can move the SLACK-SIDE GUIDE front to back, which is to be expected, but there is also horizontal movement at the pivot bolt. I am thinking this extra movement may have put more stress on the tensioner and caused it to fail. Not really sure about that, which is why I wanted to ask here.
I am aware that in the later SR20's, Nissan changed the guides and the bolts, which make think it was for some specific reason.

I've tried to loosen this bolt, but it will not turn at all, loosen or tighten. Somehow, years ago, the Allen hole became rounded out, so I pounded a 1/4 inch bit into the bolt's rounded-out Allen hex and used an impact driver to try to loosen the bolt but was unsuccessful.
The bit does not spin or move at all when I attempt to loosen the bolt, which is good, but the bolt won't budge.

Should I be concerned about the horizontal movement of the guide at the pivot point on the bolt?
 
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