SR20 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am picking up some Hypercoils and KYBs with very low mileage. I was advised I need to get some tower braces (front and back) and progress adj anti-roll bars.

Questions...

1. I have ES bushings (uninstalled), but I am not sure I want to hassle with the install. Are they really worth the hassle? I gather there is a pretty good chance your suspension will be a squeeker when they are installed (although I have it on top authority that it can be done right).

What terrifies me, is having a local (middle Georgia) shop install these things. I don't know of anyone who really knows what they are doing. Should I go to the Nissan shop and get some new factory bushings installed?

2. Since the Hypercoils and the KYBs will be pre-assembled, what parts will I need for the install. I did a stock strut install a year or so ago, and I seem ro remember a few gaskets, but not much else. Is this pretty much a bolt-in affair?

3. Where do you recommend I get the Progress sways cheap(est)?

4. Where can I get the stb cheap(est)?
 

·
Drinking The H Juice Now
Joined
·
4,216 Posts
Do the ES bushings. It will make a huge difference. You can do it yourself. Check the How-To section there is a good write up there.

If you need a front strut bar I have 2 I can sell for $25. I recently got the Cusco fstb and don't need either of mine anymore.

Progress bar.... hmmm... not sure where the best place is Toolapcfan used to be the hookup but I think he stopped selling.

If the Hypercoils are already preassembeled all you have to do is bolt them in. Same as stockers.

BTW - I am in Atlanta.
 

·
Hostile Aberration
Joined
·
4,820 Posts
Be very careful on the ES bushings in the rear of the car. They can cause binding issues.

Read this.....

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=134794

Steve explains why the rear suspension ES bushings are not that great of an idea. FastNX, Johnand, and some other smart folks chime in.

My suspension is in my sig. I love it on my DD. I kept all the stock OEM bushings, except for the Superpro caster bushings.

Unless you are a track/auto-crossin' fool, I think the ES bushings are not worth the incredible hassle.
 

·
.....
Joined
·
8,886 Posts
Front ES are fine. Rears on a B13 are not worth it IMHO. They bind and just are a pita. If you are willing to deal with greasing them regularly and don't install the forward control link then they are ok. I have been taking the ES off my 240 and installing sperical bearings. They are more comfortable then the ES bushings and not nearly the hassel.
 

·
Hostile Aberration
Joined
·
4,820 Posts
98sr20ve said:
Front ES are fine. Rears on a B13 are not worth it IMHO. They bind and just are a pita. If you are willing to deal with greasing them regularly and don't install the forward control link then they are ok. I have been taking the ES off my 240 and installing sperical bearings. They are more comfortable then the ES bushings and not nearly the hassel.
I beat you to it....;)

Does this mean I am getting smarter, or just becoming a parrot?

"Polly want a binding rear suspension?" :rofl:
 

·
Is an SE-R/VE a VE-R?
Joined
·
2,262 Posts
It means we're all learning - - a good thing in any book. Most of us have a ways to go to catch up with Steve on suspension all told, I suspect.
 

·
Original Owner
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
I've had the entire ES Hypflex Kit installed (all the rears too) for five years and I have not had the binding issues that others on this forum describe. I've noticed that many who advocate against the installation of ES bushings, especially in the rear foward link live in areas that have harsh winter environments (i.e. snow/frost/salty roads). I live in San Jose, CA so my car isn't exposed to those types of conditions.

In previous threads on the subject, some have mentioned that the Black ES bushings are graphite impregnated, whereas the RED bushings are not. The graphite is supposed to assist with the lubrication of the bushings once installed. I don't know if it works or not, but my set and all of the sets I've helped to install have been black too. One of those installs was on Andrew Phan's SE-R (a car that is frequently tracked). I haven't heard of binding issues from him (Andy, if you read this, please chime in).

Are the issues with rear ES bushing binding due to the effects of winter environments on the car's undercarriage or might it be using RED instead of Black bushings? Just expressing my personal experiences, especially since they differ from what is becoming fast becoming gospel on this forum.
 

·
Im all about the 4x4
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
i got the full master kit on my car with no troubles and had it in for about a half year now and i teamed it up with a ebay front strut bar and a active tuneing rear bar and progress sway bars front and rear on oem springs and kyb gr2 struts

my only issue right now is when i put in the sway bars and go over bumps i get a little thumping noise, im not sure if its just the bars because they clear everything, i think it could be the struts are just not strong with the oem springs with the rest of my suspention setup

i might be getting ksports

I paid a friend of mine $100 to install the full es kit and the kyb struts at the nissan dealership LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,570 Posts
aztecred92 said:
One of those installs was on Andrew Phan's SE-R (a car that is frequently tracked). I haven't heard of binding issues from him (Andy, if you read this, please chime in).
No known binding issues here, either... And it's been about two years since the bushings have been installed. I've had others drive my car at track events and autocrosses, and they say the car handles beautifully (I just have GC/AGX as my coilover setup.)
 

·
cut the fat
Joined
·
368 Posts
new bushings are one the best things we can to our old ass (yet oh so sweet) cars. the first time i did it was a pain. i didnt finish in one night. however i installed some bushings in another car a couple weeks ago and it only took me a few minutes a bushing. the difference was i didnt use the socket trick. i torched the bushing out, i sharpened an old screw driver, cut straight down the metal sleeve with the screwdriver and a mallet. trick is to hammer the screw driver inbetween the sleeve and the control arm first, so it "peels" part of the sleeve first. then then turn the screw driver perpendicular so it cuts straight down the sleeve.
 

·
.....
Joined
·
8,886 Posts
Trust me, you have binding issues. If you take the struts off the car and try to move the rears suspension arms with the es installed you will have a tough time doing it. Especially with the forward link installed. Try it you'll see. Then try with the oem bushings and then throw in even some sperical bearings. HUGE difference.
 

·
'93 drifting Egg
Joined
·
508 Posts
I never had any binding issues either on my Tsuru. I used way too much grease on the install and lubed the ends also. I tested the full range of motion on the lift without swaybar and struts installed to see. I had the reds ones and live in lower Alabama and Orlando, Fl, so I never had harsh environments to deal with. The guy who owns it now hasn't had any negative side effects other than a somewhat stiffer ride with Eibachs and AGXs (go figure)
 

·
.....
Joined
·
8,886 Posts
NissanEgg said:
I never had any binding issues either on my Tsuru. I used way too much grease on the install and lubed the ends also. I tested the full range of motion on the lift without swaybar and struts installed to see. I had the reds ones and live in lower Alabama and Orlando, Fl, so I never had harsh environments to deal with. The guy who owns it now hasn't had any negative side effects other than a somewhat stiffer ride with Eibachs and AGXs (go figure)

Thats impossible. The oem design has binding in it. To say you have none is just not possible. ES bushing just make it worse. It's a matter of degree.
 

·
.....
Joined
·
8,886 Posts
Key is to NOT do the forward link and lube the crap out of the rest. All you need to do to see that it will bind is look at the oem bushings and the ES bushings. Then look at the way the rear suspension wants to move. You have two parallel links that want to move straight up and down. Then you have the forward link that want to pull those links forward as the suspension compresses. The OEM bushing in the parallel arms allow this to happen better because they only touch the chassis in a very small area. So as it moves forward the rubber just has to deflect over the entire bushing area to allow this to happen. ES bushings are stiffer (so they want to move less) but they also are captured by the chassis and hit the chassis. This makes it more difficult for the bushing to deflect and allow this movement. Then the forward link is freaking horrible. It’s huge with lots of surface area touching the frame. Less likely to slide as a result. Replace any end of the parallel links with a spherical bearing and the entire setup will move forward easily. Just take a look at the setup and you can see what I am talking about.
 

·
Turd Furgeson
Joined
·
3,935 Posts
My uneducated opinion. Get good stuff. AT RSTB, Progress rear sway, Cusco front stb, and a whiteline or progress lower front tie bar. Front sway bar stays stock.

ES bushings are necessary for the front sway bar and shifter bushing.

Control arm bushings are a pita, but worth it. This will make your car more darty, and it will follow ruts on the highway. For me this was ok, and helps eliminate slop at track events.

The rear is best left alone for bushings, although I could use a bit ore stiffness. Its probably just my driving. I need to work on my driving before I can complain more.
 

·
Is an SE-R/VE a VE-R?
Joined
·
2,262 Posts
Guys, whether you know it or not 98 knows more about these suspensions than most of us put together. He builds the damned things. If the man says it binds, it does. If you put one together like he says not to, put your ego in a closet and change it.
 

·
.....
Joined
·
8,886 Posts
I am not trying to set myself up as a not it all. Shoot even with all I knew about binding issues on the b13, I still put ES bushings all the way around on my S13. Low and behold car got stiff as a board in the back due to the same reason as it does (but to a lesser degree) on the B13. The front link moves in a arc and the L/R links move in a arc but in a different direction. Hence the bind. On the s13 you have triple the links and as a result a ton more friction and a ton more arcs all competing with eachother. This is not a unique problem to the Nissan. Honda's have the same issues if you use all the pieces. Pick and choose and it's not as bad. I still have some ES stuff on my S13. Paired with the Sperical bearings and the grease fittings on the ES stuff that I installed and they work just fine. I am going to get rid of the one on the front eventually but the rest will likely stay just as they are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Shawn,

Did you put NEW factory bushings in? I presume you did since you at the ESbs? How expesive were the new factory bushings?
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top