[AntonioG]

Ok SE-R lovers, here's my conundrum:

My current engine is on the way out due to low oil pressure and when I dropped my oil pan I found some chunks of metal that looked like piston skirt to me and also a piece of a ring land....yeah not good.

So...I'm going back and forth on what I should do. Just buy another SR20 for $300-$500 from a engine importer and upgrade to the 100 shot program OR go for the SR20DET from SR20Development complete w/ IC relo kit.

If I go DET, I can sell off a lot of parts like my trusty N20 kit, HS headers, etc. and the final cost to me will be around $500 more than if I went with an NA engine with 100 shot and upgraded fuel systems.

I know the 100 shot will net me at least mid 12s in the 1/4 while the stock DET will be good for mid 13s, but the DET is upgradeable in the future while the NOS is not as that's the limit for a dry shot (unless I go with direct port and a 140 shot!).

Damn, I'm bouncing back and forth on this one hard...I NEED your input! Thanks.


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Antonio Garcia
91 SE-R w/ lots of stuff
a slow [email protected] on JWT 50 shot
Bay Area, CA

 

[Rittmeister]

Depending what generation, I want your HS headers. Get a DET and sell them to me!

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1994 SE-R Super Black
HS CAI, STB, NX console, 15" rolling stock, more to come...

 

[Horus]

I can't be much help, But I bet it would help to know what kind of driving do you do with it? Is it a toy/project or do you need it everyday like I do with mine?

Just thought it might help the others help you.

Wish you the best!




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Erik, 94 Classic with goodies and a matching child car seat!
"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."

 

[SERprise In WV]

Antonio,

I feel your pain, brother. I'm in the same boat, although my engine isn't on the way out. I wish it was, it would make this easier.

Eventually, I know I'll start blowing stuff up, especially when I go past a 100-shot of nitrous.

I'm considering the same two approaches you are, and it appears to come down to what the car is used for. I only autocross and drag race mine. Street driving is minimal.

Yes, the nitrous will be good for 12s, and yes, you can go faster than that on nitrous, if you really, really want to. You'll need a fresh bottom end.

Yes, a turbo will be good for 12s, and yes, you can go faster than that on a turbo, if you really, really want to. You'll need a fresh bottom end.

See my point? You'll need a fresh bottom end regardless. The practical side of me wants to stay with nitrous, as I already have the makings of a great setup. I'm literally a fuel pump upgrade away from being in the 12s (JUN cams are on the way, btw).

The turbo opens up a big can of worms, and you MUST consider all the little things, like boost gauges, turbo timers, etc. that add up after a while.

Whether you turbo your DE or buy a DET, you're in it for a minimum of $2,000 either way.

As of now, nitrous is calling me back. It's just too practical and inexpensive, and I can tune for it.

 

[AntonioG]

Well, I had a vision of making my car into a tri-purpose car...a good drag car, an autox/track day car, and a fun daily driver. With the n2o, it's easier on the tranny I believe since you don't have the mad power on all the time, but I think a DET swap would be pretty competitive in Street Mod. But I do need a car that's a daily driver...this is my only car.

I know the 100 shot is good for 240-250 at the wheels w/ bolt ons, the DET is good for 190-200whp...but less than a $1K in mods (pulsar mani and T28) w/ boost turned up can hit 240 hp too.

Damn this decision...why oh why do I have to do this?!?!? More input please!

Thanks!

------------------
Antonio Garcia
91 SE-R w/ lots of stuff
a slow [email protected] on JWT 50 shot
Bay Area, CA

[This message has been edited by AntonioG (edited 10-03-2001).]

 

[Guest]

You're also forgeting that if you ever change your plates to CA you'll need smog. And the det won't pass the pipe test(most likely) from what i've heard. Unless you have a hook up

 

[Soopastank]

not to make the decsion any harder but we are all forgetting the almight bottle refill...( trust me I know ) depending on how much you race and what not. The turbo is gonna be there all the time...plus smog may be a problem here in Cali..but isn't having your bottle connected in your car illegal? I know I drive around with my bottle on ( bad..just bad ) Just some other things to think about...I figure with the amount of money I've spent on filling the bottle..I could've finaced half of my DET..and I've only had N20 for less than a year. I'm looking to do the DET too...

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96 200sx Rice Mobile! Bone Stock..he,he,he

 

[SERprise In WV]

'Stank;

I have a solution for the price of nitrous. I posted it in another forum here, but here goes:

Go buy NOS part number 14300, a trans-fill kit. Plus, get NOS part number 14230S, which is a steel stand.

These two parts will enable you to fill your own bottle from a 'mother' bottle of Nytrous+. Which you *should* be able to buy from any industrial gas supply place.

I've got a 56-pound mother bottle, and it ran me $70 plus tax. That's $1.20 a pound.

It doesn't help make this turbo/nitrous argument any easier, I know.

But it DOES ease the hit on your wallet.

 

[redman007]

woah 1.20 a pound ! I would love to fill my own bottle! I pay 40 bucks a fill.$45 in some places. feed me more info please. email me

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91 SE-R,10:1 comp.pistons,balanced &blueprint rebuild.comp.4angle valve job,extrude honed heads/intake manifold,No emissions.crap,RC TB/MAF,nismo cams,UR pulleys,stillen4-1 ceram.header, ACT HDS/S clutch,PR CAI with POPchgr,2 1/2"OD test pipe,mandrel 2 1/4"ID superturbo ex., ZEX flywheel & JW 50 shot nos with 60 shot jet. and much more goodies!

 

[SERprise In WV]

Redman007:

Everything you need to know is in my last response, above.

I couldn't outline it for you any clearer than that, I don't think.