SR20 Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
www.motorists.org
Joined
·
3,047 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Summary:
-Removed stock secondary. Cat bolts took over an hour to finagel off
-Removed stock primary. No broke studs- they were cake to get off. Removed
EGR tube for good
-Clean out oil and coolant passages in turbo center section
-Cut off some of the hard lines for the oil inlet and coolant inlet to adapt
to my custom install since I don't have the holes and banjo bolts in my DE
block for them. Flanged the ends a bit.
-Semi-installed turbo and exhaust manifold. HAD to removed elbow/downpipe
thingy to get it on. Secured it with a couple nuts so it wouldn't fall off.
Installed lower heat shields.

Details:

The cat nuts took about 1/4 of the day to get off. A combination of rust
killing spray, box end wrenches, chisels, hammers, and vice grips got them
to come out without boogering up the stud threads. Since the three primary
to secondary nuts are the same and I don't need them anymore, I can use 2 of
them to replace the greatly damaged cat nuts. (Butthead voice: huh huh, he
said cat nuts =) )

Isn't the O2 sensor supposed to be kinda hard to remove? It popped free with
very very little effort and unscrewed by hand.

The EGR tube toward the rear of the motor was a little hard to get a wrench
to, but we got it in short time. That fitting is over 1 1/8! We had to use
channel locks on it, it was so big.

We cleaned the block surface and turbo manifold surfaces meticiously

We tried for over an hour to get the turbo manifold, turbo, and exhaust
elbow in on the exhaust manifold studs for an hour. Yes, we did get smart
early on and decided to remove the fans. =) That damn AC hard line sucks
like you couldn't believe! After an hour of pushing and pulling, I thought
"Well, I can take off the exit elbow pretty easy, lets try it without that."
Five minutes later it was on. The AC like is about 3 millimeters away from
the turbine housing when fully in there.

Another problem- the oil catch can outlet that drains into the block was
just in the way of the wastegate solenoid actuator. Just on top of it. Being
very careful with a pry bar, we rotated it in the block just enough so we
could get the catch can hose on it. Tight fit in there between the actuator
and the exhaust manifold cylinder 4 flange.

Then put the elbow back on. Kinda hard to get to a couple nuts/bolts on it
in the back. A 1/2 inch crows foot was able to get at the hardest ones. Damn
I love having lot of tools


The front lower heatshield was easy enough. The one on the turbine/elbow
side was very difficult to get on because of the AC being just 3 millimeters
away from the elbow. After a couple of times of trying to get it on there,
we beat up the heat shield a bit and cut off the bottom of the open place
where the O2 sensor goes so passing the AC line would be easier. Got that
on.

Also test fitted the downpipe Mike Jez had custom made for his B13. It fits
fine, thank God


Tomorrow I don't have a lot of time with school and work, but I can at least
do the homemade motor mounts in the two hours I have free.

What's Left:
-install all the header nuts and torque them
-install the coolant and oil lines
-mount the interheater up front and make up the piping from the Hooker
Headers pre-bent 2" diameter mandrel bent pipe I have
-install the intake tube and MAF/POP combo and make it fit with the battery
still there
-Replace my leaky upper pan with Mike Jez's one he gave me from his
assortment of dead DETs
-replace my brake fluid with Motul 600
-Have loads and loads of fun


Ben Davis
98 Sentra SE Turbo


[Edited by Ben98SentraSE (10-29-2000 at 06:02 PM).]
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top