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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, my idea is to fill the turnsignals in on an NX and make the parking lights turnsignals. http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=67067 That's the post in the NX part of the forum.

Anyway, I know the parking lights are 194s and I assume that the turnsignal bulbs are different. Even though they are different, could I just plug the 194s into the turn signal wires? I would get amber 194s. Then I would have to think of another way to get parking lights. Maybe I could get LEDs or some ricer **** in amber and plug those into the original parking wires (with a bit of splicing).
Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Toolapcfan said:
This has been previously discussed, here's a good link on how to do it:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html
Thank you that has been very helpful. However, I believe that on the NX's the Parking lamps have a parkinglamp feed and ground, and the turnsignals have a feed and ground. So... I'm not sure about the 194's on the NX, but is there a way to give them the turnsignal feed?
 

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Master Cunnilingust
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That's right, NX's don't have any dual filament bulbs up front do they. You can wire up your sidemarkers to act as turn signals but they won't act as sidemarkers anymore. To make them do both without having a dual filament socket to wire them to is complicated and requires use of relays. I can tell you how though.
 

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Master Cunnilingust
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Ok I think I've got it figured out. If a person wants to make any bulb have dual function as a turn signal and a running light, and they don't have an existing dual filament bulb to connect it to, then they need to make the bulb act like a dual filament bulb to get the floating ground effect needed to make it work. So in this example, we're taking a turn signal and we want it to act as a running light as well. So you cut the ground wire at the turn signal and connect the bulb side of the ground wire to the positive leg of a running light. Then, we tap into the turn signal's positive leg and conenct a resistor to it and use the old ground wire to connect the other side of the resistor. What will happen is the resistor will allow a path to ground without it being a direct short. Same as if it were a filament in a dual filament bulb. Now, lets say you were using a sidemarker for your running light feed to the turn signal, but you want both the turn signal and the running light to both act as turn signals and running lights. So now you connect both bulbs positives together and connect them to, let's say, the turn signal wire. Then connect both bulbs ground legs to the running light wire. Take the leftover ground wires from the lights and connect a resistor between them and the positive legs on each bulb. So they'll act like two dual filament bulbs, with a floating ground through the resistors. But to avoid cahnging how the flasher operates you'd wan to make sure the turn signal leg resistor provided a similar load to the system as the bulb filament did. To determine this, you use a meter to check the resistance of the bulb. On my dual filament 1157 bulb, it was 2.2 ohms for the running light filament and .8 ohms for the turn signal filament. So then I take 12 volts and square it, so 144, and divide that by each resistance. I get 65 watts for the running light and 180 watts for the turn signal. So I need .8 ohm and 2.2 ohm resistors. I'm not sure if I can get this in one resistor, it might take a combination of a couple to get the ohm loads exact. I'll also experiment with using higher ohm load resistors for the running light side, since the ohm load won't effect the light operation like it does on the turn signal side. I figure, why increase the current draw if you don't have to. I'm off to radio shack, then I'll test this stuff out tonight or tomorrow and let you all know if it works for sure. This could be great for Tsuru headlight swaps where you loose turn signals.
 
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