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Whut?That Ain't No Hondah
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

Doing a u12 BlueBird into a B14.... We attempted to use a B13 wiring harness with a u12 ecu, but the b13 harness does not match the underdash harness at all... so that was a no go.

We swap'd the b14 harness back on, and are attempting to make it work w/ the u12 motor... a few of the clips are different and/or need to be extended...
We swap'd the internal distributor onto the u12, changed the coolant sensor. Anything else?

Which harness did you b14 guys use? And what did you modify?

Any help definatly appreciated, you can reach us via aim, xCRIM

Thanks!


Steven/tyler/mitch/george/rob/josh
 

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This might help. We are using the b14 harness. this might help with your swap:
Things about the 98 200SX SE-R swap:

*You will have 3 solenoids left over (not a problem)
*You will have 1 big sensor that sits on top the 98 inatake manifold left over (shouldn't be a problem).
*You will have 1 EGT sensor left over (not a problem).
*Throttle body will have 1 plug left over (not a problem if u modify the throttle position sensor) I'll post pics of a before and after TPS mod
**Bounus if u have a W11 Avenir throttle body you can use that it allows for the mounting of the 2 plug TPS sensor found on 98 SR20DE
Extras you need to complete the swap:

Coolant bleed caps x3 (only 1 if your not gonna do the throttle body coolany bypass mod)

FICD hoses both sides

Heater core coolant lines both (for 91 Sentra SE-R)

Power brake booster vacuum hose (for 91 Sentra SE-R)
by charlie2020
I dont see a problem useing the 98 power steering hp hose with the DET pump or 98 DE pump.
http://sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=66976
 

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Whut?That Ain't No Hondah
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2,558 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Incase anyone has a similar question in the future heres what we did....


For a u12 BlueBird (BB) motor into a 1996 b14 200sx we used the stock B14 wiring harness. We took the stock Sr20DE lowport distributor off and put it onto the bluebird, because the b14 distributor has an internal coilpack.

We swap'd the coolant temp sensor, o2 sensor. We had to extend the AAC and FCID sensor wires. We had to extend the knock sensor, IAC valve sensor wires and o2 sensor wires. We did not use the EGR and some other coolant temp sensor plug (the sensor on the SR20DE was located on the backside of the intake manifold near the throttle body) because these were not on the u12.
 

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shift_boost
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i dont remember extending any wires exept the o2. you will need both colant sensor plugs one is for the guage, single prong, the other two prong is for the ecm. every thing else was strait forward with the b14 harness
 

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Whut?That Ain't No Hondah
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2,558 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
We had some issues with the plugs not reaching, possibly because we routed the harness in a crappy way. And yeah we only swap'd the two prong coolant sensor, so the gauges showed that it was overheating, even tho I was positive it wasn't.
 

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i smell that whore.
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i hate to resurrect this thread, but i've got a question about the coolant temp sensor. i bought a half completed bluebird swap some time ago, and the guy i bought it from said i needed to wire in a new coolant temp sensor, which he provided. i connected solid wires with solid wires, and stripes with stripes, and it seemed to work, for a while. now that i'm really close to having the car running right, when i let it sit and idle, it starts creeping into the hot range, even though my autometer water temp gauge, whose sender is tapped into the thermostat housing, says the car is sitting at 150 degrees. do i have some wires backwards, and if so, whats a good way to diagnose which ones are wrong? thanks.
 

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i smell that whore.
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bump the dead thread.

if some one can point me to a thread that details coolant temp sensor wiring details, that would work too.
 
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