I'd be willing to buy one of those pans from you miko.The price does not matter.Andreas Miko said:If you have read this complete post you should have come to a conclusion already.
1. Use an 8 CWC
2. Use a VE oil pump These bad boys will net over 100 PSI
3. Use Mobil 1 oil
4. Put an oil cooler on your car.
As for me I will be making a larger capacity oil pan at the end of Oct. I am hoping to get 1 more quart of oil down there. It should be 1/4 in deeper and will not extend out past the edge of the oil pan seal. I already have the design. It will also have fins on the sides and back to help in cooling the oil by increasing the aluminum surface. Yes I am talking about the lower oil pan and it will be made in aluminum
My theroy here is I should have lower oil temps and my oil change interval should be less. I hope my math is correct here. Here I go, If you go from 4 quarts to 5 quarts oil capasity will increase 25%. I am also hoping that more oil will aid in haveing cooler oil. By having one more quart of oil the time it takes for the complete 5 quarts to run through the motor will be higher so less stress on the oil and by making the pan out of aluminum with the fins I should have cooler oil.
I might also change the design to fit 6 quarts but I dont now if I want the pan sticking out past the edges, but we will see. If I do that will be a 50% increase in oil capacity
The DE and VE pully is the same as far as Diametermpg9999 said:Greg Vogel sells one that is slightly larger then the VE pulley (which I believe is already larger then the DE pulley).
Sounds good, but does anyone have an idea if it works properly on the RWD engines? I'm assuming if I were to install the VE pump along with the VE spacer I could use the RWD pulley. Then the problem of getting the accessories to line up is the issue.SR20Turbofreak said:I had a VE pump on my last VET, I had it apart a few times to shim it to get the oil pressures I wanted. I was making 100psi at 4000rpm and 120psi at 9,000rpm. I have used them on DE/DET's too and never had any problems.
I don't like eletric water pumps, I don't trust the reliabilty under road race conditions. I know of two that have failed.Andreas Miko said:ok we are talking about the water pump pully itself. I misunderstood.
Get an electric water pump anyway
If you are running only one belt to the alternator, the DE U/R pulley works fine. If you are running the Powersteering/waterpump belt you need the VE crank pulley.Is there an underdrive pulley that works with the VE pump? As you know roadracers need that to prevent overheating.
Arent the gears in the VE pump deeper so the nose of the UD pulley is too long and it would stick out or the crank bolt would not register properly right?FastNX said:If you are running only one belt to the alternator, the DE U/R pulley works fine. If you are running the Powersteering/waterpump belt you need the VE crank pulley.
it will stick out...you need to take it to a machine shop with the OEM ve crank pully so they can match it...its really cheap and simple but off the shelf it doesn't allign.choaderboy2 said:Arent the gears in the VE pump deeper so the nose of the UD pulley is too long and it would stick out or the crank bolt would not register properly right?
You're correct about the hp loss and the same holds true for the KA engines. Some KA racers revert to the individual main bearing caps from the truck block or slice out the arms of the girdle. Nismo did unpublished testing that confirmed the loss at about 5%.Andreas Miko said:You can put a girdle in a VE with the VE caps. All you need is the DE main studs and a DE girdle. I have done this many times before.
There is no need to get DE main caps and to have the block align bored.
Also putting a girdle back in the motor will also cost a loss of HP. This ha been tested by me, SR20Turbofreak and by many Nissan raceers. You will loos about 5-7 WHP when putting the girdle back in the motor. I only do this when turboing or using NOS on the VE.