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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Leaving work yesterday, and vvl solenoids never switch on. After changing out the relay, it works again, this morning, again, no vvl. Could the msd switch be burning these puppies up? Or is it just a coincidence that the first relay was expired, and the second one wasn't too far behind?
 

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merely a flesh wound
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15,274 Posts
Try going direct from the MSD and see what happens. I ran my MSD digital that way and never had a problem.

Are you SURE the relays aren't working? Because if they are, and if the solenoids are good, it could be an issue with low oil pressure.

C
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #3
Oil pressure is anything but low. It worked right away after swapping out relays, and this morning, bam, nothing.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #4
Also, don't you think it may be an issue if I run the msd directly to to solenoids, if the msd is busted?
 

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merely a flesh wound
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15,274 Posts
Well test the MSD if you think it might be an issue. You know all it does is provide ground to the solenoids, right?

C
 

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Her 1st track day in 2017
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2,105 Posts
I'm not running a MSD unit (GReddy MSS for me), but I took out the damn relays on my setup and just run direct. I did this after not having one of the cams switching while trying to dyno the damn car (trying to trouble-shoot on the dyno sucks). :)

I say check the MSD to make sure it is OK, but then remove the relays.

Josh
 

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merely a flesh wound
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15,274 Posts
I dunno, I wasn't the one that hooked it up :D
WEAK!

Well, that's what it does. To test it, just hook a test light to +12v, and probe the yellow wire. The light should turn on when you reach the rpm set point. Just move the set point down to something like 1200 rpm so you don't have to rev the piss out of the engine. Also, make sure the OFF rpm is set somewhere beyond redline.

C
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #9
Well, luckily for me, I have the swich with the rotary dial, so 1200 rpm is not doable, I'll have to rev it to 4600, thats my lowest set point. But if the one I got is no good, I guess I'll upgrade to the digital :)
 

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merely a flesh wound
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15,274 Posts
Just so I don't get accused of being a monkey, MSD rates the 8969 at 1.5amps. I don't know how much current the Vtak solenoids draw, but I never had a problem with mine.

For people smarter than Serban, just measure the resistance of the solenoids, divide it into 12 (or 14 to be safe), and you'll get the current draw. Basically as long as the solenoids measure at 10ohms or higher, the 8969 will be within its' design parameters.

C
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #11
For people smarter than Serban, just measure the resistance of the solenoids, divide it into 12 (or 14 to be safe), and you'll get the current draw. Basically as long as the solenoids measure at 10ohms or higher, the 8969 will be within its' design parameters.

C
Yes, that's far beyond my intelligence level :running:
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #12
I went out for lunch, and guess who decided to join? my good ol' friend VVL :poke:

Guess I'll see how long it sticks around for this time.
 

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Is an SE-R/VE a VE-R?
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2,262 Posts
Dunno, sir. I did little bitty radio schlock relays, one each for each solenoid, both get fire from the 8969, and the relays complete the ground circuit for the solenoids per instructions. They've done absolutely nothing but work flawlessly.
This helps not, I'm sure- but here's a lousy pic of location - you can see the 8969 directly past the pop charger, and the relays sit just forward of that. You can see where your battery sits faithfully, its ittybittyness leaving room for the ignition stuff.
Jer
 

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Premium Member
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9,405 Posts
I've forgotten what driving a VE feels like. :(
 

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merely a flesh wound
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Well put away the friggin clay bar and drive tha bish.

C
 

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Broke Ass
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I have my 8969 hooked up directly to the solenoids also. It has been five months with no problems.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #17
Just an update, if anyone cares. Turns out it wasn't the relay that was the problem, even when bypassing it, the solenoids came on whenever they wanted to. So I pulled the msd switch out, hooked up the solenoids directly to power and ground (as chriscar suggested), and they click on, and work, and at idle the car struggles to stay on with with the high side side of the cam switched on.

Tomorrow I'll probably get another rpm switch, until then I'll be riding around in the 130hp wonder! :D
 

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Professor Dingbat
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5,543 Posts
IF that doesn't work, check the screen on the VVL valve body. We had a problem with the race car last year, where the VVL would not stay on even though there was power to the solenoids and tons of pressure, but there were chunks of rod bearing and god knows what else clogging the screen, preventing the oil from flowing where it needed to in the head. Remember the oil pressure reading is taken soon after the oil pump, not in the head.
 

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BTCC VE Power
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5,151 Posts
Just an update, if anyone cares. Turns out it wasn't the relay that was the problem, even when bypassing it, the solenoids came on whenever they wanted to. So I pulled the msd switch out, hooked up the solenoids directly to power and ground (as chriscar suggested), and they click on, and work, and at idle the car struggles to stay on with with the high side side of the cam switched on.

Tomorrow I'll probably get another rpm switch, until then I'll be riding around in the 130hp wonder! :D
just keep the high cams on lol...
 
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