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H20injection said:
Very nice are you using 100% water?

Chris
Yes, I like to run a smaller jet and 100% water vs a larger jet with some percentage of alcohol. Some guys like to run huge jets and lots of alcohol. I use it more for a reliabilty tool than a power increasing tool.

Mike
 

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I agree and have the same setup as mike going in. Smaller jets with pure water for the cooling and reliability effects. I make enough power without needing more from alchohol injection.

I do however have a dual nozzle system going in. I have 3 pots and a compator system to run a single smaller nozzle, single larger nozzle or both together. This is referenced off the MAF signal.

Brent
 

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coach said:
I agree and have the same setup as mike going in. Smaller jets with pure water for the cooling and reliability effects. I make enough power without needing more from alchohol injection.

I do however have a dual nozzle system going in. I have 3 pots and a compator system to run a single smaller nozzle, single larger nozzle or both together. This is referenced off the MAF signal.

Brent
Got any schematics? That sounds really cool! Are you tuning around water or just purely for reliabilty?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
choaderboy2 said:
Yes, I like to run a smaller jet and 100% water vs a larger jet with some percentage of alcohol. Some guys like to run huge jets and lots of alcohol. I use it more for a reliabilty tool than a power increasing tool.

Mike
What size jet are you running? and where are you injectiong?
 

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I am using water for advanced timing and a couple more psi safely. I am pretty lucky to begin with with a DET and 94 octane fuel at the pump.

Schematics for that he has on his site, beware they are hand drawn. I am looking into having some PCB's made up of the circuit for easy assebly.

Brent
 

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H20injection said:
What size jet are you running? and where are you injectiong?
I run a .5mm when running C16 for power and high boost. I run a .7mm for running around at 14 psi on pump gas and a 1mm for road racing to stop overheating and to assure no BOOM.

Mike
 

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good info here!!! This should be a sticky or on the FAQ... a lot of folks have asked about H20 setups, methane mixture and jet size selection... sounds like 2 pretty solid setups for reliability on here... I too will set mine up for insurance more than for power.. sure its nice to run more timing and boost but at the same time keeping it safe is the main goal... No Boom; in otherwords...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am really trying to decide what jet is the right size for me. I have a 1.mm in right now and dont really know if its to much or what. How do you guys select jets?

Chris
 

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Glad you made it over here man! Jets are rated at a specific CFM based on the PSI of pump you have. I have heard that the jet should be about 25% of the total CFM of your fuel injectors. I have

4x550cc=2200cfm so I need around 550cfm of water flow through the injectors. Find a nozzle that flows that amount at the psi your pump is working and you have your base. Now you can adjust up or down in size as needed for advanced timing, fueling or whatever you want to add in.

Brent
 

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H20injection said:
I am really trying to decide what jet is the right size for me. I have a 1.mm in right now and dont really know if its to much or what. How do you guys select jets?

Chris
1mm is good for insuring relaiblity at high boost on a 2 liter motor. If no other tuning changes are made you will lose about 10-15 hp with this sort of water volume. If you have an inefficent intercooler/turbo, your power could actualy not be changed much.

Jetting depends on the motor, efficent turbos and intercoolers don't need as much water. Inefficent turbo, like pushing small stock turbos to high boost needs a lot of water and you see power gains due to improved charge cooling with no tuning.

Typicaly for a 2 liter with a fairly decent turbo system you might want to use a .7-1mm jet and if you want power, you can run 4-6 degrees more timing and lean out the mixture .2 of a ratio OR run 2-4 psi more boost.

It varys with individual system setup so you might have to get on a dyno and experiment.

Where water makes the biggest gains is when trying to squeze more power out of pump gas. I have gotten 40 more hp on a SR20 on 92 octane on pump gas whn the tuning was done around the water system. When running race gas, the water is more to assure relaibitly.

Mike
 

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coach said:
Glad you made it over here man! Jets are rated at a specific CFM based on the PSI of pump you have. I have heard that the jet should be about 25% of the total CFM of your fuel injectors. I have

4x550cc=2200cfm so I need around 550cfm of water flow through the injectors. Find a nozzle that flows that amount at the psi your pump is working and you have your base. Now you can adjust up or down in size as needed for advanced timing, fueling or whatever you want to add in.

Brent
I knwo that is the general guidline but have always fond that that is too much water for all but for keeping the car from overheating on the road course. That much water looses power and its hard to get it back through tuning. What have you experianced?

Mike
 

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dead-on Mike!! I spoke with Aquamist at SEMA this year.. their techs.. one was a hillbilly dumbass... they both stated that for a 2 liter turbo to begin with the.7mm jet and work your way up or down (usually-but not always, up) depending on how you are tuning.. as Mike stated either around the water system, reliability or looking for more power---again depending on the efficiency of the turbo setup(ic and snail).
Thats awesome taht you were able to draw that much power form the pump gas!!! definitely a good aspect for street/daily driven turbo cars..
 

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With my system and the dual nozzles I ordered a .4mm nozzle and a .6mm nozzle so i will have those sizez and a combined size of 1mm for adding water. The controller will be nice cause the water will be more linear to engine load and fuel. I don't like simple boost setups cause you have a ton of water right when you hit the set boost psi then at WOT your water is much less compared to air/fuel.

BRent
 

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NX$paniard said:
dead-on Mike!! I spoke with Aquamist at SEMA this year.. their techs.. one was a hillbilly dumbass... they both stated that for a 2 liter turbo to begin with the.7mm jet and work your way up or down (usually-but not always, up) depending on how you are tuning.. as Mike stated either around the water system, reliability or looking for more power---again depending on the efficiency of the turbo setup(ic and snail).
Thats awesome taht you were able to draw that much power form the pump gas!!! definitely a good aspect for street/daily driven turbo cars..
You want to talk to Richard Lamb, he was the older asian guy with the british accent, he owns the company and is the brains.

The only trouble about tuning so you need the water is if the water system fails, BOOM!

The only drawback is the suburb aquamist nozzles clog easily so its very important to run the filter and to only use fresh ends of the hose. If you push and pull on the hose end, tiny plastic shavings that the barb wears off the plastic hose can clog your nozzle. Don't ask me how I found out about that one...

Mike
 

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coach said:
With my system and the dual nozzles I ordered a .4mm nozzle and a .6mm nozzle so i will have those sizez and a combined size of 1mm for adding water. The controller will be nice cause the water will be more linear to engine load and fuel. I don't like simple boost setups cause you have a ton of water right when you hit the set boost psi then at WOT your water is much less compared to air/fuel.

BRent
Mine is set up to turn on right before the torque peak were cylinder pressure is the highest and detonation is most likely to occur. Then by the nature of engines, the excessive water on the top end takes care of itself.

The amount of water per unit time is fixed because its a simple nozzle right. As an engines VE drops after the torque peak, the cylinder pressure goes down and the water demand to prevent detonation goes down as well right?

Well the amount of cylinder filling opertunites goes up with RPM but the water volume is fixed so the amount of water per cycle that the engines gets is less as rpm goes up! Takes care of itself. So I get so it doesnt knock at the torque peak and the engine will still get less water at high rpm.

I have the 3D mappable Aquamist system but I never uses the PWM solenoid nor the controler beacause of this effect, its not needed and I don't need the extra complication.

I do like brents dual jet system, I could tie that into my dual map ECU so I can run both jets for pump gas and one for race gas or stagger jet activation using the JWT ECU Daughter board for pump control. Intergrate an IC sprayer like a WRX or EVO and that would be total coolness.

Mike
 
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