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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'96 SE-R
Looks like the guy who did my brakes a while ago welded the drivers side rotor to the hub. Is there any reason someone would need to do this? These are supposed to just slide of the wheel studs after the caliper is removed correct? Is it possible that it's just frozen to the hub with rust/brake dust? Sure looks welded though, and I haven't been able to break it off.

Side note: (I've searched every and tried everything I've found.) Any tips on removing the axles from the tranny? Drivers side may budge after a while, I'm going to try to find a better pry bar. Passenger side goes through a support bracket and I'm a little confused about where I need to be trying to seperate it. I busted a big puller getting them out of the wheel hubs and was actually pretty scared to try again (big stress on steel stuff scares me.)

Is it possible my 100,000 mile 8 year old Nebraska winter car has all these pieces frozen and stuck. Maybe I'm in over my head.

Of course, I did get those 'sums 'o bitches outta the wheels. two hours ago I was ready to chuck the whole project.

Thanks,

DaveyDo
 

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hrmmm, i dunno could be rusted shut
but dont take the drivers axle out of the tranny, its a pita to put it back in.
just take it off the hub side, and the passenger side is easy, just drop the control arm take out of the hub, and take it out of the support bracket outward.

when all else fails use a BFH
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
BFH - that's some kinda hamer right? Do they have those at Harbor Freight?

Thanks for the reply. I'm actually determined to get them both all the way off though, clean/inspect the CV Joints and put new boots on. Starter went out last weekend and when I got underneath both boots were split and spewing grease all over the place. I hadn't noticed anything driving, so after the work I've invested so far, I'm hoping they're ok. I can't afford decent replacements and haven't been able to find remans from the major parts stores.
 

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DaveyDoGoFast said:
BFH - that's some kinda hamer right? Do they have those at Harbor Freight?

:rofl: Yeah it's a Big F****in Hammer. Seriously, that's what it stands for. Get some PB Blaster and douse the backside of the rotor, everywhere it touches the hub. Let it soak, and maybe do it a couple times. It'll come loose eventually.
 

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'96 SE-R
Looks like the guy who did my brakes a while ago welded the drivers side rotor to the hub. Is there any reason someone would need to do this? These are supposed to just slide of the wheel studs after the caliper is removed correct? Is it possible that it's just frozen to the hub with rust/brake dust? Sure looks welded though, and I haven't been able to break it off.

Side note: (I've searched every and tried everything I've found.) Any tips on removing the axles from the tranny? Drivers side may budge after a while, I'm going to try to find a better pry bar. Passenger side goes through a support bracket and I'm a little confused about where I need to be trying to seperate it. I busted a big puller getting them out of the wheel hubs and was actually pretty scared to try again (big stress on steel stuff scares me.)

Is it possible my 100,000 mile 8 year old Nebraska winter car has all these pieces frozen and stuck. Maybe I'm in over my head.

Of course, I did get those 'sums 'o bitches outta the wheels. two hours ago I was ready to chuck the whole project.

Thanks,

DaveyDo
It's not possible to weld on a brake rotor as far as I have ever heard of. If the last person who had the rotor off never put an anti-seize lubricant on the inside
before reassembling the brakes water gets into it and corrosion will set in that cause the rotor weld itself on. If you live in an area that salts the roads in the
winter the more likely it is for rust corrosion to set in. To get a stuck rotor off you need to hit the rotor face with lug nuts on to protect the lugs from damage.
Be extremely careful if you try to hit the rotor from the back where you can break the support for the caliper itself. No idea what that would cost if break a support.
Some people put boltsfrom the harware store through these rear holes and put a nut on them and push the rotor from the back in two places, then turn the rotor
180 degrees and repeat. Then if it doesn't work you need to buy what I use, which is a three armed gear puller that you use by attaching it to the inside of the edge
of the rotor. It must be placed with equal spacing as possible and used with an impact wrench because if you do it by hand you would break the puller from
twisting it. Here's a link on Amazon, it's only $35 and worked well for me so far if you can post here:
 
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