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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What does it feel like...(video inside pg 3)

***UPDATE***VIDEO ON PG 3----when your stock ignition is crapping out? (yes i searched but only confused myseslf)i've been having problems with my car sputtering as soon as i hit like 1-2 psi of boost, in every gear except 5th and then i can get to 7-8 psi then it starts. I have no boost leaks, compression is good. Plugs look ok (bkr-7e gapped at .25mm). Wires, cap, rotor, are all 7 months old. I thought it was detonation, but after talking with AZ WHITE S-ER (sean), I don't really think so anymore. Its seems more like, maybe a misfire?? The only thing we could think of was mis-programmed ecu, which i called and checked on, fuel filter (have a new one ready to go in), or maybe gummed up injectors.

I'm really stumped here, any knowledge would be greatly welcomed.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
basically yes...i can get it all the way to redline if i keep out of boost. but the second i get into boost it goes haywire! WOT is out f the question. I think i can probably, almost totally count out detonation, because i topped off with 100 or 101 octane (like 4.5 gallons), on top of 91, and my timing is at like 14*. I have talked to one of the guys at JWT, and he said that I should get it scanned, with a consult or whatever, using some special parameters on they're website.

yeah i meant .025", sorry bout that.
i have also already checked for boost leaks, couldn't find any, and i also have like 19-20psi of vacuum. Also compression is 150 across the board.

I dunno guys, i could definitely use some wisdom!
 

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FWD PWNAGE IS HERE!
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damn that sounds almost exactly what I am experiencing and your setup is so close to what I am running its scarey. what fuel filter are you running? do you have any oil leaks?
Here is my thread
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=73173
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i dont have any oil leaks that i'm aware of...but then again it is possible. I'm taking the car to the stealership on monday, to run a consult test that I was told by JWT to perform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
no problem, i let ya know if I find anything out. I think I may be ablr to find someone with a consult before monday...
 

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I had a similar prob. car was running very rich, crappy gas mileage, you try to boost and it just stutters but it'll rev if you stay part throttle. One, i put my old plats back in and the stuttering/misfiring went away (vs coppers). that, and my tps was messed up soi reset that and all has been great since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well i just put in a 300z tt fuel filter and it seems slightly better. i'll have to find out how to reset the tps, and give that a shot tommorow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
what would be a good # to gap my plugs @? right now i have bkr7e [email protected] would i be better with a bigger, or smaller gap? replace maybe with bkr6?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
topity top
 

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ser_smokes_alot said:
what would be a good # to gap my plugs @? right now i have bkr7e [email protected] would i be better with a bigger, or smaller gap? replace maybe with bkr6?
Assuming you are not running water injection, the stock ignition SHOULD hold to 10psi no problem with .025 gap. However what you describe sounds just like an ignition misfire.

I had an insulator on a plug get a hairline crack one time and same crap happened. I went crazy trying to find it on a Friday night until I just swapped the plugs. Later I found the crack.

Check the basic things first. Buy another set of BRK 6/7E's and toss em in. It's only like 5 bucks. If that doesn't fix it, see if someone can come over with an SE-R and "borrow" wires and see if it fixes it. If not, try the cap and rotor. It's very possible you have a cracked dist cap. Even a hairline crack you can't see is enough for it to arc out.

Also be sure your plug holes do not have any moisture in them.

If all that doesn't fix it, it's possible your coil is dying. There is a way to test it, but you can also "borrow" a complete distributor and swap it out in 5 minutes.

As a bandaid that probably won't work you can back the plug gap to like .019 and see if that allows you to run more boost. Probably not as it sounds like you have a serious deficiency somewhere in the ignition.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have tried like3 different set of plugs, and still have the same problem. I have one more set of brand new bkr7's, so i guess I should try puttin them in, and try a gap of like .019, like Hass said. In a quick jaunt down the street today, it seemed as if it wasn't so bad when the engine wasn't all the way heated up yet, but also I didn't have my fans turned on (have them run off a switch),but it was still missing. On my way home i kicked em on and it seemed like it got worse again. Could they be making it worse?

I dunno, its been so long since it ran right, I'm just starting to get really frustrated.

Please keep the suggestions coming. THANKS
 

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ser_smokes_alot said:
I have tried like3 different set of plugs, and still have the same problem. I have one more set of brand new bkr7's, so i guess I should try puttin them in, and try a gap of like .019, like Hass said. In a quick jaunt down the street today, it seemed as if it wasn't so bad when the engine wasn't all the way heated up yet, but also I didn't have my fans turned on (have them run off a switch),but it was still missing. On my way home i kicked em on and it seemed like it got worse again. Could they be making it worse?

I dunno, its been so long since it ran right, I'm just starting to get really frustrated.

Please keep the suggestions coming. THANKS
If you already changed the plugs, that pretty much eliminates one being cracked. On to the next item.

The fact that the car runs worse when hot definetly points to ignition. Generally speaking, when a coil pack is going bad it will show up worse when it gets warmed up. HOWEVER, it could also be there is something else taxing the ignition (I.E. a short) and it's so "on the edge" once the coil warms up it gets worse.

I had a cold solder break in my distributor once. I modified it for the MSD Digital 6 and the car would exhibit the same things you are experiencing. I thought for sure the coil was dying, but the reality was the circuit was arcing and once the car warmed up and the ignition wasn't putting out the same voltage it showed up hard core. I found it by chance one day when I lightly pulled on the trigger wire coming out of the distributor and to the MSD box and the car stalled.

Either way, no matter how "new" the cap and whatnot is, if you can borrow one and swap it out, try it. A cold splash of water can crack a cap so fine you can't see it. If that's not it then move on to the distributor and try and borrow one for a few minutes. (Two bolts and a couple connectors. 5 minutes tops) Process of elimination is the only way to find this unfortunately. Granted you COULD do ohm checks on the coil etc via the FSM but it's just so much easier to borrow and swap for 10 minutes.

Personally I think electricity is of the devil. Evil. :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well i just put in a distributor i got from the used parts store, saving $400 on the part. Well I swapped in the plugs that are gapped at .025, and I think setting my timing to 14*. Now it's still doing it, not as bad, or it could be detonation, but anyways it gets into boost a little more, then falls on it's face. Should I try the other plugs again (@.020) ya think? Or what else could i try? Man this thing is really starting to piss me off!
 

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It sounds to me (and I could be wrong) like you have a boost leak, an intercooler coupler is ripped or something. I was having the same problem, you can get 1-2lb boost before it ****s up and starts putter puttering. Check allllllllllll of your couplers...make sure your injector grounds are on too, that gave me sputtering.

Justin
 
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