Ground Controls w/ 600lb rear springs do ok. Cheaper than Teins / JIC and still gets the job done on the strip.
What is the best drag racing suspesion setup?
I will be driving this car on the street, but I'm not intrested in high speed cornering---i just want to dead hook at the drag strip/street, (also, ride quality is not an issue since i dont have sound deadening material-nothing can suck more than that), what's a good suspension setup (springs, struts, traction bars, ghetto set-ups that work...etc...) I can't afford some off the wall tein/jic style set up--so tell me what u think, I run the 1/8 of a mile where i live, I am running a modified t25/t28, [email protected], 11psi, fm gtir ic, 4 puck clutchnet, and 75 shot (wet) on half and half c-16
-seth
[email protected]
also, what would be needed to run 7.60s-8.0s in the 1/8 mile?
-seth
[email protected]
also, what would be needed to run 7.60s-8.0s in the 1/8 mile?
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
You will want to put this in the proper forum, first.
As for suspension, you want to reduce suspension 'squat' in the rear as much as possible, to keep weight from transferring to the rear and unloading your front slicks. Which leads to spinning and higher ETs.
So, the stiffest springs you can find should go in the rear. 600lb/in and higher springs on GCs should be a good place to start.
Up front, you'll want as little negative camber as possible to maximize traction. Keep as much of the slick on the ground at all times, in other words.
As for traction bars/devices...do some Googling and find what the really fast Honda guys are using up front, then make your own links/bars. Nobody makes them for B13/14/15s.
Good luck.
As for suspension, you want to reduce suspension 'squat' in the rear as much as possible, to keep weight from transferring to the rear and unloading your front slicks. Which leads to spinning and higher ETs.
So, the stiffest springs you can find should go in the rear. 600lb/in and higher springs on GCs should be a good place to start.
Up front, you'll want as little negative camber as possible to maximize traction. Keep as much of the slick on the ground at all times, in other words.
As for traction bars/devices...do some Googling and find what the really fast Honda guys are using up front, then make your own links/bars. Nobody makes them for B13/14/15s.
Good luck.
Any recommendations on where to get the 600lb. springs? Do I have to get a set of 4 or can I get just the rear 2?
Thank you.
Thank you.
you can get any spring rate you want with GC from any dealer. You can buy just 2 springs as well.
I use 300f with 600r with AGX's It is not bad on the street.
Put in the front ES inserts for the control arms that will help.
A good allignment will help.
Get good tires..nitto drag radials work well or BF drags.
Make sure your motor mounts are good.
Most important of all make sure you dont get lead foot with that T-25 in the low gears.
I use 300f with 600r with AGX's It is not bad on the street.
Put in the front ES inserts for the control arms that will help.
A good allignment will help.
Get good tires..nitto drag radials work well or BF drags.
Make sure your motor mounts are good.
Most important of all make sure you dont get lead foot with that T-25 in the low gears.
BORNGEARHEAD said:Any recommendations on where to get the 600lb. springs? Do I have to get a set of 4 or can I get just the rear 2?
Thank you.
www.pitstopusa.com has an awesome selection of coilover springs, in multiple lengths, from multiple manufacturers (bet you didn't know that Hyperco makes coilver springs, eh?). GCs take 7" length springs. Choose whatever rate you want, and order 'em up! About $50/spring, or thereabouts.
Thanks, Greg, for the information. I'll be getting hold of them.
Don't you guys think 600 is a lil' high the guy said he wanted to drive on the street too. He didn't say I wanna replace struts ever other day. With my personal use, I'd say go with the 400's in the rear, not to bad on the street and doesn't squat at all on the track. Just my $0.02.
Josh
Josh
Sounds like he's not concerned about its street manners at all, to me.nissanoholic said:I will be driving this car on the street, but I'm not intrested in high speed cornering---i just want to dead hook at the drag strip/street, (also, ride quality is not an issue since i dont have sound deadening material-nothing can suck more than that)
As for what it will take to run 7.8-8.0 in the 1/8th mile...you'll need more than the T28 setup you have. On 3-bar setup that you have, it will max out at about 8.45 in the 1/8th.
I ran 8.28 on 11psi with the 4-bar fuel setup. 8.1x isn't out of the question on a very good day, and it must be using slicks or else you don't stand a chance.
To run 7.99 or quicker, I would suggest a big-ish T3/T04e with 50lb injectors at 4-bar fuel (or 72lb injectors) and Z32 MAF. You could gamble your entire setup and use the 4-bar fuel setup, race gas, and turn the boost way up there BUT IT IS A GAMBLE. Things most likely will go 'boom'.
Good luck.
naawwwwsss
umm.... also i'm going to use nirous, hopefully a 75-100 hot wet? any concerns/advice?
-seth
umm.... also i'm going to use nirous, hopefully a 75-100 hot wet? any concerns/advice?
-seth
SERprise In WV said:Sounds like he's not concerned about its street manners at all, to me.
As for what it will take to run 7.8-8.0 in the 1/8th mile...you'll need more than the T28 setup you have. On 3-bar setup that you have, it will max out at about 8.45 in the 1/8th.
I ran 8.28 on 11psi with the 4-bar fuel setup. 8.1x isn't out of the question on a very good day, and it must be using slicks or else you don't stand a chance.
To run 7.99 or quicker, I would suggest a big-ish T3/T04e with 50lb injectors at 4-bar fuel (or 72lb injectors) and Z32 MAF. You could gamble your entire setup and use the 4-bar fuel setup, race gas, and turn the boost way up there BUT IT IS A GAMBLE. Things most likely will go 'boom'.
Good luck.
I have this same problem. 600lb rear's or 400lb rears
you whould think with 600lb rear the shock would not be working much cuz the will not be much travel. I am going to try and get sum springs made. I can see spending 400 for g/c when i never want to raise nor lower my car.
you whould think with 600lb rear the shock would not be working much cuz the will not be much travel. I am going to try and get sum springs made. I can see spending 400 for g/c when i never want to raise nor lower my car.
That is totally the same way I feel.muleman said:I have this same problem. 600lb rear's or 400lb rears
you whould think with 600lb rear the shock would not be working much cuz the will not be much travel. I am going to try and get sum springs made. I can see spending 400 for g/c when i never want to raise nor lower my car.
I would strongly suggest you don't run 600lb springs in the back of a street car unless you really know what you're doing. Driving around and cruising is no big deal, but if you have to swerve to aviod something on the freeway, or take a corner a little fast, you will absolutely spin out uncontrollably. It will just start to go and you will not be able to catch it. It will be vary dangerous to drive.
Edit: More specifically, it is having much higher springrates in the back than front that is the problem, not just high rates in general.
andris
Edit: More specifically, it is having much higher springrates in the back than front that is the problem, not just high rates in general.
andris
^^^^^^^^^I second that. When I had hyperco rears and stock front susprnsion, my car was just that, dangerous.
so maybe like 350 front's and 500lb rears ????
No, more like don't run rear rates that are more than the fronts, or even equal to them. For serious drag racing, you should certainly run really high rates in the back, like 600, or even higher if you have a cage. However, I'm just saying that if you want to do this, it should be on a trailered car. On a street car, you are truly flirting with disaster by running rear spring rates higher than the fronts. There is a good reason people always recommend combos like 300/200, 300/250, 400/300, etc. for street cars; it is because it produces a car that is relatively balanced and safe to drive around on the street. There are a lot of factors that can change the way a car handles besides spring rate - like alignment, swaybars, tires, pressures, etc. But all else being equal, spring rate has a VERY significant impact on the way a car rotates. I'm not trying to exaggerate or scare anyone; this is something you should take seriously. If you are that concerned about the last 1/10th of a second in 60ft times and can't trailer your car, bring an extra pair of struts/springs and swap the rears at the track. What kind of struts would you use with those spring rates anyways? If you are going to use an AGX, you'd probably be faster with a 250lb spring than a 600 just because the AGX isn't going to be able to control a 600lb spring.
andris
andris
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