I'm getting between 25-30+mpg depending on how much city and highway driving I do. My weekly average is 28-30mpg for mixed city and highway driving. I did notice a slight decrease in gas mileage after I swapped, but bigger cams will do that. However, I still get good mileage although my longer (G20) gears may be helping with that too?
What kinda mileage you all gettin'?
I'm getting around 15-16mpg city, 22 hwy right now. I've heard other guys in the VE section say they're getting near-DE mpg numbers. I don't know what the deal is. I wasn't getting good mileage when I still had my DE (19-20 city, 24 hwy), so I'm thinking it could be something to do with the transmission(?). I'm using the same O2 sensor that was in my DE, but the previous owner had just changed it out months before he sold it to me (in August). Any suggestions?
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last tank i did was about 29mpg(city) and that was after 30dyno pulls and a hell of alot of test runs
thats because they leaned their cars out a little. my car and yours wyatt are running really rich. we need to dyno and probably back the fuel pressure off a little. we will see much better miles per gallon after that. most of the guys getting better gas mileage have tuned with a fuel pressure regulator. i am getting about what you are getting.
I don't have a FPR, Its tunned but it's tunned to rich it's touching 12.4 on the wideband at points
i'm getting about 21 mpg......
Ummm...for a DE or VE?Thrillseeker197 said:i'm getting about 21 mpg......
DE ....... I know it sucks.
I should wait until I get my JWT ECU to do that, right? Where's the FPR located and how do I lean it out?92nx2k said:thats because they leaned their cars out a little. my car and yours wyatt are running really rich. we need to dyno and probably back the fuel pressure off a little. we will see much better miles per gallon after that. most of the guys getting better gas mileage have tuned with a fuel pressure regulator. i am getting about what you are getting.
yea wait til you get the computr before you dyno. the FPR is a nismo part... part number 22670-RR580-US. it is 107.99 on nismoparts.com not including shipping. ive got a connection i can get it for 90 including shipping but then id have to ship it to you. probly another 5 bucks. thats the cheapest i can get it. i wouldnt lean it out any until you dyno....dont risk it.
around 20
You arent alone, I have been concerned too! I'm only getting between 19-24mpg with an average of 20 or so. ALthough all my driving is all city cause i live in downtown honolulu area. Plus, i rev my car to at least 6k at every stoplight just cause its fun. I think you are like me though, DE computer, no FPR. That may be some of the problem.
nathan
You arent alone, I have been concerned too! I'm only getting between 19-24mpg with an average of 20 or so. ALthough all my driving is all city cause i live in downtown honolulu area. Plus, i rev my car to at least 6k at every stoplight just cause its fun. I think you are like me though, DE computer, no FPR. That may be some of the problem.
nathan
Your right foot makes a BIG difference. The big cams suck fuel down like a frat boy chugs beer at a keg party...
My mileage in 100% city is in the mid 20's
20 something thats with stock ecu and de maf.. runnin rich as hell cant wait for the wolf comp
haha
There may be some truth to that heavy right foot thing. My girlfriend borrowed my car for 4 days cause hers was dead.
Her = 26mpg
Me = 20mpg
hahahha
nathan
There may be some truth to that heavy right foot thing. My girlfriend borrowed my car for 4 days cause hers was dead.
Her = 26mpg
Me = 20mpg
hahahha
nathan
It really doesn't make much difference. The DE computer has enough adjustability to adapt the fuel maps pretty close to ideal.Mr_VVL said:20 something thats with stock ecu and de maf.. runnin rich as hell cant wait for the wolf comp
I finally got around to fixing the cold-idle problem, and that should put an end to at least a small amount of fuel waste. It was so easy, I couldn't believe it. I just went to Home Depot and got a flat-tip screw that was the same size diameter (I think it's 10/32", but don't quote me) and the same thread and screwed it on in there!
So, after I get my JWT ECU I'm going to get a nismo FPR and lean it out while on the dyno. If my mileage still isn't satisfactory, I don't know what I'll do.
So, after I get my JWT ECU I'm going to get a nismo FPR and lean it out while on the dyno. If my mileage still isn't satisfactory, I don't know what I'll do.
good to see its idling good now when its cold. if you need a fpr let me know.
I know that everyone says this, but would we have to go to the Dyno if we had a wideband O2 sensor ourselves. The reason I say this is because I have the FPR, JWT comp, and the Walbro fuel pump(because the old stock fuel pump was giving out at high RPM's. I got bad Dyno numbers and my A/R ratio was going nuts at the time). I also know that my car is running real rich as well since putting the Walbro pump in. It has been running better and faster since putting the Walbro in. Now just waiting to take it back to dyno soon, Hopefully. Just a question and wanting some input.92nx2k said:yea wait til you get the computr before you dyno. the FPR is a nismo part... part number 22670-RR580-US. it is 107.99 on nismoparts.com not including shipping. ive got a connection i can get it for 90 including shipping but then id have to ship it to you. probly another 5 bucks. thats the cheapest i can get it. i wouldnt lean it out any until you dyno....dont risk it.
I would say it's just safe to do it on a dyno
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