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Never fear, help is here...
I have a '93 SE-R, so I imagine the markings are identical for your NX2K. You may want to check the page about timing just to be sure...
On the passenger-side of the engine, shine a flashlight down towards the alternator/ac compressor, which are located on the very front corner of the engine. You'll see a pulley way down low, which is connected to the crankshaft inside the engine. On the very top of that pulley, you'll see a pointer, which looks like a sharpened stick. Kinda small, about 1 inch long, hovering over the pulley (and going across it) I just mentioned.
Get a timing light ($20 at any auto store. While you're there, pick up a Haynes manual for your car, BTW).
Start car, let it warm up a couple minutes.
Turn car off.
Disconnect the throttle position sensor (a plug that is brown colored ('93), just beside the throttle body down low on the driver's side of the engine).
Start car again. Idle shoot go up to around 1500rpm or so. Don't worry.
Connect timing light to #1 spark plug (the one that is furthest left--on passenger side), connect timing light power (red) to battery positive, connect ground (black) to a good engine/frame metal ground spot.
Pull trigger on timing light: It should flash (strobe) every time the #1 cylinder fires.
Now....point that timing light back at the pulley/pointer mentioned earlier. You should see some timing marks (little white marks on top of the pulley).
Here's where things *may* be different between your '91 and my '93, but they'll be close regardless: Going clockwise, from the back side of the engine toward the front, you should see 5 white marks on the pulley when the strobe flashes. *Two* of the marks are very close together. On '93s, those two represent 13 degrees (left) and 15 degrees (right). Yours may be different, which is why a Haynes manual will do wonders for you.
Factory timing should be at 15 degrees: I've run mine at 17 degrees, but you must use 93 octane or better.
To change the timing: Find the distributor (thing with spark plug wires coming out of it, on driver's side of engine towards the front). Loosen the two bolts that hold it down (12mm socket). Rotate the distributor one way or the other (your choice the first time). Going towards the firewall should advance the timing (up in numbers). It only takes a small rotation of the distributor to move the timing a few degrees. You'll hear the idle increase as the timing is advanced further.
Tighten down the bolts on the distributor, get your timing light, and shine it back on the pulley/pointer to see which way it moved. Eventually, you'll find out which rotation of the distributor moves the timing which way.
The goal is to get the pointer on the right-most of the two white marks (on the pulley) that are closest together. That *should* be 15 degrees. Again...get a Haynes manual to know for sure.
17 degrees (just to the right of the 15 degree mark) is preferable, but again, you'll have to run 93 octane (premium) all the time.
*Don't forget* to hook the throttle position sensor back up (turn the car off, hook the sensor back up, then start the car again).
Need more help? Check ( saved the page in my browser's scrapbook, on a laptop, and had it with me on the car while checking the timing the very first time. Once you do it, it gets much easier.
As always, you can email me if you need more help. [email protected]

Greg Perry, '93 SE-R w/ 149,000 miles, JWT pop, header, ProActive
clutch, ST bar, NOS direct-port 75hp, Autopower 4-point roll bar/harnesses.
[email protected] 1/4 mile, [email protected] 1/8 mile, 1.98 60-ft.

My SE-R page, with videos

[This message has been edited by SERprise In WV (edited 07-16-2001).]

Holy SERprise!!!
You are motivated tonight!!!!

-3x CRX owner
-SE-R mods: "Home Depot" intake
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