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Egg Lover
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451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mine has only light rust on the lower A pillar and some starting between the spoiler and the deck lid.

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93 NX2000 auto, advanced timing, Hiper Flow POP filter, new motor mounts, 99k miles.
 

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679 Posts
mine has bad rust on the inside of the bottom of the driver side door and a little on passenger side door, so if anyone has a driver side door they wanna sell me contact me!
 

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Off-Topic lurker..
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3,122 Posts
i cant see any rust on my car...i looked this morning.. although...where can you buy this mysterious oil spray to prevent rust from even starting? is rustoleum safe for paint?

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Aztec Red 1993 NX2000
 

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_______
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2,170 Posts
Nowhere.

Mostly because I spent $4000 removing all the dents, replacing two apillars, replacing the exterior trim, and repainting and refinishing the entire car last summer.

I also spray the car every year with an oilbased rustproofing at Krown - it's a lot like Rustcheck, but not wax-based like Ziebart.

The apillars and around the 3rd brake light seem to be trouble areas.
 

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nothing but shenanigans
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763 Posts
Mine has the bubbles on the a-pillar as well and the bubbles by the third brake light. those must be problem areas because mine has seen only one winter when it was new in 1993, and i'm starting to get it.

Wisconsin blows for keeping cars clean enough, i couldn't imagine living in canada!!!
 

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679 Posts
Where the hell is the A-Pillar??
 

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Egg Lover
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451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The support for the windsheild is the A pillar, the area behind the door is the B pillar and the area behind the rear window is the C pillar.

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93 NX2000 auto, advanced timing, Hiper Flow POP filter, new motor mounts, 99k miles.
 

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Where am I? Seldom here!
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71 Posts
No rust anywhere

Never had any either.

Oh, and just to rub it in, I don't have any siezed bolts. Everything comes apart easilly.

And to go even farther, it's a Canadian car!


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91 NX2000
91 Hardbody K.C.
 

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Stuck on an island
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1,284 Posts
i have some bad rust in my rear wheel wells bad anuff so that i can stick a puty knife threw to the inside but its from bad repair work that the former owner had done, did know about it untill a few weeks ago
and i have some starting on the A piler
 

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21 Posts
Quick to slow- down rust method:
Your local hardware store has a big
bottle of something called Ospho:
Get some and a spray can of cold-
zinc galvanize [ 90% pluss zinc ]

Go after what rust you can get at
with a grinder or small cutting- wheel
[ using the flat part] not the edge;
this is where experience comes in.
ii) Don't grind all the way through
the metal [ your on your own here].
iii) Reduce the rust to a minimum;
leaving only slight visable rust
where possible.
iv) Spray or brush- on ospho; converts
rust to iron oxide [ black & hard]
v) wipe or let dry; well.
vi) Spray or spray into can- cap
then brush- on zinc**
this seals out oxygen to prevent
the process of rusting, but the
zinc is soft, like powder, so it
will come off easily. It is
necessary to cover the zinc with
something else [ paint] to hold it
in place...
vii) Have developed other solutions to
restoring strenght to weakened
areas, over the years; if anybody
is interested continue at this post.
Hope this helps somebody...
 

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Stuck on an island
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1,284 Posts
my rust im having to cut and welded and im also goign to use rust mort same stuff as ospho and see if a friend can weld my seems shut with out pulling the body, and im going to apply body sealer properly.
who ever did the work last on the car didnt seal the seam in the wheel well all the way they stoped were metal takes a 90* turn up were the strut is bolted to the body.

so if any one has there pannals replaced check if they did all the seams with body sealer,
 

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newbie
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8,148 Posts
I have a lot of stress cracks thuogh around my door jambs. Aroud the door lock hinge. My hood before I got the bodywork had cracked by the bolt holes where the hood bolted to the hinge. My rear tailgate has a stress crack near the wiper motor. Some 91's (espically white, I don;t know why) has stress cracks all over. My spare tire well has rust (because the previous owner in 96 did not dumb dumb the taillights) and the rear l/s wheelwell has some rust. Other than that it is in good condition. The first I will tackle this year or early next year is the trunk sparewell. Having a bodyshop in the family you can put these things off till it is dangerously bad.
 

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newbie
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Bump. DAMN, since 2001 and I still have not fixed the rear wheelwells. But I did fix the front. Not as bad as I thought huh?
 

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Is that wrong??
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2,118 Posts
between the spoiler and deck lid.....
 

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Im Not A Chick
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3,304 Posts
wow i was about to smack who ever brung this back into play till i saw it was you pretty white lol.... i have minor rust under the car.. most of the shock tower rust has been done no A or B piller rust... and my tail light completly rusted out so that got removed compleatly
 

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newbie
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8,148 Posts
between the spoiler and deck lid.....
Common problem, I am beginning to get that too. Will tackle it before it gets out of hand.
 

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newbie
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8,148 Posts
Very common problem. I can tell you exactly where there is rust in your car without even looking at it. Unless your car is garaged or you live in the midwest away from the coast, I can tell you where there is minor rust spots forming even if you have not seen it.
Yes, between the decklid and the 3rd brake light is a common spot.
In the doorjams by the hinges is a common spot
In the rear wheelwell near the left speaker mount/bracket is a common spot
Under the floorpan by the plastic tunnel for the rear brake lines under the undercoating is a common spot.
If your taillights have leaked, in the spare tirewell is a common spot (You may have water in your hatch and not even know it)
The most common spot is the A Pillars
The other overlooked spot is the front fender innerliner. The seams split and rust.
The 10mm bolts that are covered in your T Top that hold the rubber weatherstripping to the frame are shot. I can almost guarentee it.
There is no way a NX has not even a minor rust spot.
 
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