SR20 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, which motor mounts are u Turbo people running? I don't think my OE mounts are gonna handle that much power. I recnetly put in ES inserts on the dogbone and the rear one on the tranny so I think all I need is the left and right ones on the engine? I'm only doing a BB DET and dont plan on going over 250hp anytime soon.
TIA,
Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
I believe it was $250 for the entire set (4 mounts). I don't think they sell them separately, but you could call to find out.


------------------
Brandon
98 SE-R
F-Max stage I
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
JWT makes the whole mounts, thats why they are expensive (and they are very strong . ES is one of the companies that makes inserts. Anyone correct me if Im wrong here...
Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do they sell just the left and right engine mounts, excluding the mounts on the tranny? and how harsh does it make the ride? and also what's the $$ ?
Thanks
Nick
 

·
www.motorists.org
Joined
·
3,047 Posts
Go to Advanced Auto Parts and pick yourself up some 3M Window Weld and fill in your current mounts with that goo and let them harden. $10 for the same things as ES or JWT inserts for pennies in comparison. I've filled my mounts in before with the older McMaster-Carr 94 shore urethane (which works very well) but the 3M Window Weld should be available locally at an auto parts store and is about $10 cheaper than that urethane. I'm going to use the 3M solution here on my NX very soon.

------------------
Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE stock, slow, and for sale
93 NX2000 Quaife ATB diff, JWT clutch, SMC short shifter, front STB, front ES control arm bushings, JWT POP charger, B14 SE-R wheels as soon as I get my tire swappin' done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,463 Posts
I have the homemade rear insulator (tranny mount near firewall) and its great for regular driving, but I want a stiffer (ie, noisier) motor mount for racing. Does anyone have suggestions on how to buy or make a second mount that fits this description? The JWT piece would probably be good but I don't want to buy a whole set.

I would want to replace the whole piece on the crossmember, not just swap inserts. I don't want to use the ES inserts here.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,886 Posts
Originally posted by Yellow4g63:
U have to press in the JWT mounts. don't forget about that.

That is why I went with PRI's motor mounts, they sold you the mounts complete, just bolt them in. I like the way the car idles, every damn thing shakes! Mounts are very important, I have a bolt-on car only, and they made a HUGE difference...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I got ES inserts in mine and they feel nice. Didnt completely get rid of wheel hop but it helped take away alot of the torque steer. Driving long distances on the interstate, the steering wheel vibrates enuff to annoy u but not enuff to take em out. GOOD $20 i spent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,062 Posts
jacen99SE said:
I have the homemade rear insulator (tranny mount near firewall) and its great for regular driving, but I want a stiffer (ie, noisier) motor mount for racing. Does anyone have suggestions on how to buy or make a second mount that fits this description? The JWT piece would probably be good but I don't want to buy a whole set.

I would want to replace the whole piece on the crossmember, not just swap inserts. I don't want to use the ES inserts here.
Did you completely empty out the rear mount and fill it with the 94 shore urethane? Thats what I did, and I couldn't imagine anything more solid than that, except for maybe concrete or solid metal.

I'm using McMastercarr trans and rear mounts, ES passenger side mount, and a custom aluminum dogbone mount.

Jonathon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
580 Posts
I want to do the custom mounts job with the 3M window sealler. But want to know how much time did you let it dry? I let it dry for 18 hours and when I removed the tape all the urethane dropped like if it was water. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
iam useing the motor mounts that sr20development sell they run for 150 they have to be pressed in iam happy with them if you like the feeling of all that bad ass vib,deep tone in your car...
 

·
ClamSlut
Joined
·
5,043 Posts
Wow, this is an ooooooooold thread.

But on topic, I've got some sort of pourable urethane I picked up from govmn't surplus I'm gonna try soon. Its a 2 part solution, no pouring in layers or ovens needed, and it cures very quickly. Should be worth a shot at least.
 

·
meh
Joined
·
867 Posts
That is why I went with PRI's motor mounts, they sold you the mounts complete, just bolt them in. I like the way the car idles, every damn thing shakes! Mounts are very important, I have a bolt-on car only, and they made a HUGE difference...
i have all 4 PRI mounts in my b13 too.....even my key ring vibrates :) i have both the front and rear ES inserts in my b14.....IMO, go with the PRI's, they feel better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
774 Posts
I have to agree with the PR motor mounts. I've got them on my 200sx w/ GTi-R swap and they feel great. There's a lot of vibration but the engine doesnt move and almostcompletely eliminates wheel hop on their own. Great investment if you ask me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I have the pli mts, and a custom frt mt, at first a lot of viberation, guess i got use to it, they work great. now if i could only get the wheels to hook...then we could break some axels:D
 

·
SE-R Monster
Joined
·
661 Posts
well to put it simply motor mounts ROCK. i got a set of place racing ones in my Spec
they make the car shake more but damn no more wheel hop ( have you ever been in a 2k2 specv when you nail second and make the front jump bout 6 inces off the ground HEHE )
Rocco
P.s actually cracked the whole trannie case damn shitty nissan trannies
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top