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SR20: VVL VS Autech?

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Which would you choose: VVL vs Autech's DE?

6467 Views 34 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  Butterscotceven
Ok guys, this will be a long plan, but I don't want to regret when I made the choice. :)

I might be able to get a hold on an Autech's SR20 in the near future. So before I go ahead and swap in the VVL, do you think the Autech's will worth the wait?

I'm pretty sure that the Autech's DE (175 PS) would come with the Autech's ECU, wiring loom, limited slip differential, manual transmission. And since it originally came in a JDM B14, the swap should be straight forward. Both motors alone should cost about the same, according to where I live.

What do you guys think? What modifications each motor could take further? The car is daily driver but should have reliable power when needed. :D Thanks a lot.
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sr20ve,sr16cams
youll be satisfied

autech has a claimed 175 its lower then that though
Also Autechs will be driven hard and miles ???. VE is likely an auto driven by anybody. Maybe some weiner dentist or something.
How would you identify an Autech DE?

What makes it different from other DE motors?
How would you identify an Autech DE?

What makes it different from other DE motors?
good question , i too would like to know. :confused:
these Autech DE were in Autech Pulsar and Autech Primeras what i know.. i think you cant identify these engines by a view..
Very good points, guys.


I think you can't identify these engines from the outside. They just look like another DE, unless you talk to the guy who removes the engine from an Autech car or open the VC to see the cams or worked head or the ECU. Also I guess you could check the engine number with Autech to see if the engine has gone through the company. A friend of mine has the engine in his b14 and the sound of it reving is also different.

http://www.autech.co.jp/HISTORY-SV/B14S01/index.htm

http://www.autech.co.jp/HISTORY-SV/B14S02/index.htm
Now if u could get your hands on an autech ve...then u would have the best of both worlds. I would want to put in a autech because its original...well atleast over here it is...I dont know anyone or heard of anyone really that had an autech in their cars...hell if u can get one shoot me some info on how i could get my hands on some autech engines
sr20ve with a set of 288 cams will pull a fast one before racewars.
Now if * could get your hands on an autech ve...then * would have the best of both worlds. I would want to put in a autech because its original...well atleast over here it is...I dont know anyone or heard of anyone really that had an autech in their cars...hell if * can get one shoot me some info on how i could get my hands on some autech engines
Is there something wrong with your keyboard? Just curious. ;)
you can't us "*" anymore you have to spell out you
Tuning potential might be greater in the Autech SR20. Even though than particular engine may be harder to modify it still can be easily considered as a normal SR20....with SR20 potential
Too many non facts being thrown aroudn here:biggthump

The autech runs 11.5:1 CR - and the gearset thats with them is absolutely perfect - literally its the best gearing ratio fro the quarter mile and track.....shifting through 1-4 puts your right back in the peak range for power.


Whack on a good header - big exhaust, clean intake setup, some underdrive pulleys - a light remap and your looking at 190whp. Throw in some bigger cams, and your pushing into the 200's.
Where can you find specs on this engine?
autechs have 11:1 CR and forged pistons, bigger cams - something like JWS3R´s, different injectors, autech ECU
autechs have 11:1 CR and forged pistons, bigger cams - something like JWS3R´s, different injectors, autech ECU
they run 11.5 compression - as i said above.

also refer to here for compression link: http://www.autechownersgroup.org/pictures/CCE00001.jpg

Do not have forged pistons from what we can tell.

Cam profile runs 11.5mm lift on the inlet and exhuast cam.

The ecu is a reflashed sr20de ecu by Autech.

The engine runs a EGT sensor just at the cat, and the o2 sensor is housed after the collectors in the short pipe before the cat.
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I don't know anything about this company, but how much do one of these things cost? Why not go with a built US-spec DE? My engine builder is getting 156whp - 180+ crank - using 10:1 compression, .040 overbore, all other stock engine components INCLUDING STOCK CAMS, and CalumSult Realtime ECU. Dyno-proven, and I've got the sheets to back that up.

Give this guy cams and high-compression pistons, and you'll probably blow 200 crank horsepower -without- VE...slap in the 4.437:1 final drive and a NisMo LSD and you're hauling the mail...

Hey, just sayin'... - GA
2700 USD for a car itself roughly.


I call bs on your engine builder getting 156whp using just an overbore and 10.4 compression. That 1mm overbore wil be giving him about 5whp maximum. The stock cams dont provide anywhere near enough lift to allow the timing to generate good dynamic compression.

Whack a set of extractors to the autech - along with a good exhaust, use your mapped ecu. And your pushing low low 14's(170whp) without even taking the cam cover off:biggthump

And the autechs have an excellently geared gearbox - with LSD.



In regards to the OP - if you do throw a VE head on the Autech block - which is a solid solid base, youll roughly achieve 12.2 cr. That paired with the good headers and exhaust, a good tune, some N1 cams and pulley would see you in the ball park of 13 second quarters and pushin 200odd wheel hp.
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