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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I went to the track and ran an amazing [email protected]

something is wrong....switching of the cams is working it is majorly loud being I am running 3 inch out the side and a STOCK DE Manifold(only thing I had for quick hook up)

I am running one MSD box at 5000 pill and a relay off the battery I am also using the Stock DE high port Distributor

I have a VE ECU programmed for 5900 RPM daughter board and 140 degrees
and VE injecotrs and Stock MAF

thing is is I am running a S-AFC sense I did not have a Regular MAF laying around just a VE(maxima) set it at 04-06 and seems to run fine....

now the thing is you can hear the cams switch it is so loud but I just tested it after I went to the track the car is faster with the solenoids disconnected.

timing is at 15 degrees I even bumped it up to 17 didn't seem to help much

If anyone has any ideas shoot.....
 

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Jah Rastafari
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thing is is I am running a S-AFC sense I did not have a Regular MAF laying around just a VE(maxima) set it at 04-06 and seems to run fine....


The 95-98 Maxima MAF is not the same as the VE MAF. The VE MAF is the same as the 00 and newer Xtera. The VE MAF is also the same as the newer Pathfinder MAFs from 98 and newer.

That might be your problem.
 

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Red line chaser
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Digitek said:
with the wrong maf the car will not run good.


my car runned like **** till I changed the maf.


and why are you using stock DE manifold? didn't your ve bring the VE manifold?
This is true. This was one of the things that held me back in tuning the car.
And there are more than a few VE motors that are sold without the exhaust manifolds that I have seen.
 

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NEOphile
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307 Posts
Get yourself a JWT ECU. Did your engine not come with the stock exh. manifold? The stock one should work on a G20 chassis (but it doesn't work easily on mine, damnit!). If you don't have the stock VE manifold get yourself an aftermarket header and port-match it or get the Fujitsubo one. Your G20 doesn't have an LSD, does it? If not, get one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
white classic said:
Get yourself a JWT ECU. Did your engine not come with the stock exh. manifold? The stock one should work on a G20 chassis (but it doesn't work easily on mine, damnit!). If you don't have the stock VE manifold get yourself an aftermarket header and port-match it or get the Fujitsubo one. Your G20 doesn't have an LSD, does it? If not, get one.
I have a JWT ECU....I am now running the MAF the ECU calls for and its still slow I've even tried using a stock ECU and putting it at 22 degrees still slow My only option left is the exhaust manifold.

I have the VE manifold but it won't hook up you need a GA16 DE Header secondary to make it work....

I am buying an OBX header tomorrow we will see how it turns out I hope it gets faster then 88 mph traps LOL

and as for LSD I have a SE-R LSD transmission in it
 

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Fear no honda
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wow i didn't know a 1.6 secondary works.. i don't think the header will hurt you so much that u will go 15.8,,i think u need to explore a few more options, Wat kinda 60' are u getting?
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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If the car feels slower when the cams switch to the big cam, my guess is there's something wrong be found there...
Does your car idle all nice and smooth, or does it lope like a V8 with race cams?
 

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NEOphile
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JustinP10 said:
If the car feels slower when the cams switch to the big cam, my guess is there's something wrong be found there...
Does your car idle all nice and smooth, or does it lope like a V8 with race cams?
That's what I'm thinking. Maybe you've got your cams reversed, i.e. the high cam is on when the low cam should be, and vice versa. You should make yourself a cam switching indicator light and switch. Take your window switches and hook the positive lead on both lights to the battery positive, then hook the negative lead on the lights to the yellow wire on the respective window switch. Then hook the cam switching on/off switch up to interrupt the current to the window switches. Too easy. Then you can tell when your cams are switching and if you've got the low and high lobes reversed. Oh, for the lights, get an LED from Radio Shack, and make sure it's a 12V one. Some of them they sell are just for 1-4 volts and will blow in a car.
 

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VE junkie
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my theory on this is maybe you have used the wrong triggering wire with the MSD and are cutting OFF a device at a selected rpm limit. therefore your cam solenoids might be on all the time til you hit the limit and then your switches turn them off. just a thought. but i think youd be running really shitty if that was the case.
 

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Man thats real slow. Doesn't a DE do better than that?
 

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Turbo Grocery Getter
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I think you need to just dyno that thing... it will tell you that either the cams are not switching properly or the thing is just not making power. At least that will lead you in the right direction. Ive got a GHETTO VE setup (de injector, header, 50mm exhaust etc...) and i still trap at 97 on street tires. Good luck man.

nathan

Salvisol82 said:
Man thats real slow. Doesn't a DE do better than that?
 

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Salvisol82 said:
Man thats real slow. Doesn't a DE do better than that?
Not in a G20 it doesn't ;)
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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Xard said:
Not in a G20 it doesn't ;)
That's not true. My old DE motor ran 89mph with just HS CAI and HS Header. Ran 92.x mph in with added UR pullies, flywheel and 91 intake cam (I think I had that cam at the time?). I added S3 cams after that time and I'm sure it would have trapped higher, but I didn't have the opportunity to go to the track w/ the S3's, well I really don't go, so that's more likely the reason :tongue:

The one time I went to go drag race in my VE it was like 100ºF outside and I had a really restrictive exhaust still. Still ran ~94mph on the one run I got before it started raining. I know it'd trap a LOT higher now that I have everything opening up and tuned right. My car is about 2700lbs, which is pretty light for a P10, but it's definitely not going to be the fastest VE power car by any means...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
JustinP10 said:
That's not true. My old DE motor ran 89mph with just HS CAI and HS Header. Ran 92.x mph in with added UR pullies, flywheel and 91 intake cam (I think I had that cam at the time?). I added S3 cams after that time and I'm sure it would have trapped higher, but I didn't have the opportunity to go to the track w/ the S3's, well I really don't go, so that's more likely the reason :tongue:

The one time I went to go drag race in my VE it was like 100ºF outside and I had a really restrictive exhaust still. Still ran ~94mph on the one run I got before it started raining. I know it'd trap a LOT higher now that I have everything opening up and tuned right. My car is about 2700lbs, which is pretty light for a P10, but it's definitely not going to be the fastest VE power car by any means...
New times tonight....
2.377
9.761
73.230
12.587
[email protected]


guess the header helped out I had no traction at all even with azenis but stock suspension probably has something to do with that.

I was hitting 8k at the end I have the SE-R LSD tranny so....
I'm assuming this is where it should be at...Dyno next week going to see if the 255lph pump affected the air/fuel ratio and gonna try and test the fuel pressure
 

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Yeah, I'm so used to my car which is both a touring (bonus weight) and an automatic (gear ratios suck) that I normally expect most G20s to run a 16, but I guess with a some bolt ons you could get into the mid 15s range, and low 15s with cams.

This is all seperate from his car, which still needs to be tuned something fierce. You should be able to get a mid 14 with the VE just directly into the car.
 

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the original 4-door SR20
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Sr20loper, nice a 15.1 is not bad. You will be in the 14's very shortly.

Justin P10 did you have your stock tranny when you were running the DE? What were your quarter mile times?
 
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