x-drilled or slotted
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Joined
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3,122 Posts
i'd go with slotted, as far as i hear cross drilled rotors will crack much much easier than slotted rotors, and it makes sense why...you have freaking holes drilled in your brake rotor, it's gonna crack easier under pressure..go with slotted, let us know how it turns out!! or you could just go with the NX2000 front brake upgrade...i belive it is called the AD22VF upgrade...you can get them off www.courtesyparts.com..click on the BIG BRAKE upgrade kit link..
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Aztec Red 1993 NX2000
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Aztec Red 1993 NX2000
The only 2 things I've experienced that will keep rotors from warping are: Get bigger brakes, or cryo treat your stock rotors.
Crossdrilled and slotting will do nothing for you.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
Crossdrilled and slotting will do nothing for you.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
Cross-drilling does indeed help to cool rotors. I personally would upgrade to AD22VF calipers and cross-drilled rotors. This combo should be all you need for street duty. If you like to autocross then cryo-treating the rotors, besides cross-drilling, is highly recommended.
it seems like everyone has their preference and ideas. halkf of 20 people i have spoken ith liked slotted/x-drilled, and the other half said stay stock with better pads. i will wait and see at the local sentra meet next weekend.
thanks
thanks
Joined
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4,699 Posts
I *REALLY* like my x-drilled. Although debated alot I do believe that with good pads (Metal masters) they stop the car better. I like being able to stomp on the brakes, continue driving, and then stomp on them again and them not to have faded.
Am I going to have to lay some knowledge out here again for you guys??
The only thing cross drilled rotors do for you is help remove money from your bank account. There is ZERO evidence that they help cool anything. If I'm wrong, someone please put up some charts or graphs or something to support it. I don't want opinions. I want credible data.
Please explain how the x-drilled rotors run cooler. Remeber that one of the functions of the rotor is to act as a heat sink to remove heat away from the brake system. How in the hell is removing mass from this heat sink going to make the brakes run cooler. Please, show me data.
Cross drilled rotors crack. All of them. Even the ones that have the holes cast in them like Porsche. Even the ones that are cryo-treated. Simple physics really. You have a lump of metal with a hole in it. The area immediately surrounding that hole will cool quicker than the area not immediately surrounding the hole. This is called a thermal gradient. Thermal gradients induce stress into metal. Rinse, repeat, and with enough cycles, the stress will cause the rotor to crack. Always, without fail.
I race my Sentra (auto-x, time trials, track schools). I spend time at real race tracks with real race cars. In the past 2 years, I have worked in the pits on Trans-Am (the race series, not the GM product) cars and SCCA IT cars. I have also spent up close time wandering the pits of Motorola Cup (now Grand-Am), Speedvision GT, and former Team Oreca Viper GTS-Rs (the ones that run Le Mans). Never, ever, ever, have I seen a single cross drilled rotor anywhere on these $100,000+ race cars. Just big ass vented rotors with an assload of ducting. Why do you think that is?
Think of this: How much are x-drilled rotors? $75 each? More? So you're looking at 3 bills for 4 rotors. For $200 I got loaded NX2K calipers and stock NX2K rotors. For less than the price of ricey rotors, you can get something that actually works, instead of something that just looks cool.
And if your brakes fade after 1 stop, you need better pads, not drilled rotors.
Now I'm sure I've pissed someone off, so flame away.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
The only thing cross drilled rotors do for you is help remove money from your bank account. There is ZERO evidence that they help cool anything. If I'm wrong, someone please put up some charts or graphs or something to support it. I don't want opinions. I want credible data.
Please explain how the x-drilled rotors run cooler. Remeber that one of the functions of the rotor is to act as a heat sink to remove heat away from the brake system. How in the hell is removing mass from this heat sink going to make the brakes run cooler. Please, show me data.
Cross drilled rotors crack. All of them. Even the ones that have the holes cast in them like Porsche. Even the ones that are cryo-treated. Simple physics really. You have a lump of metal with a hole in it. The area immediately surrounding that hole will cool quicker than the area not immediately surrounding the hole. This is called a thermal gradient. Thermal gradients induce stress into metal. Rinse, repeat, and with enough cycles, the stress will cause the rotor to crack. Always, without fail.
I race my Sentra (auto-x, time trials, track schools). I spend time at real race tracks with real race cars. In the past 2 years, I have worked in the pits on Trans-Am (the race series, not the GM product) cars and SCCA IT cars. I have also spent up close time wandering the pits of Motorola Cup (now Grand-Am), Speedvision GT, and former Team Oreca Viper GTS-Rs (the ones that run Le Mans). Never, ever, ever, have I seen a single cross drilled rotor anywhere on these $100,000+ race cars. Just big ass vented rotors with an assload of ducting. Why do you think that is?
Think of this: How much are x-drilled rotors? $75 each? More? So you're looking at 3 bills for 4 rotors. For $200 I got loaded NX2K calipers and stock NX2K rotors. For less than the price of ricey rotors, you can get something that actually works, instead of something that just looks cool.
And if your brakes fade after 1 stop, you need better pads, not drilled rotors.
Now I'm sure I've pissed someone off, so flame away.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
The only NASCAR that I watch is the road courses. I have not seen any drilled rotors while they swap tires in the pits. I toured Hendrick Motorsports in Charlotte for a metals processing class in college and I don't remember seeing any, but that doesn't mean they weren't there. If anyone can verify, I'd love to know if they use them.
While I'm here, yes, I know motorcycles have drilled rotors. I believe drilling has the purpose of giving rain water somewhere to go when you apply the brakes, it's just completely unneccesary on cars. We have big round things called wheels that effectively block water from getting to the rotors. In addition, there's a splash shield on the back side of the rotor to help keep water, dust, dirt, etc off the rotors. Motorcycles, however, wear their rotors on the outside, exposed to the elements.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
While I'm here, yes, I know motorcycles have drilled rotors. I believe drilling has the purpose of giving rain water somewhere to go when you apply the brakes, it's just completely unneccesary on cars. We have big round things called wheels that effectively block water from getting to the rotors. In addition, there's a splash shield on the back side of the rotor to help keep water, dust, dirt, etc off the rotors. Motorcycles, however, wear their rotors on the outside, exposed to the elements.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
don't those use centrifugal force to sorta "fling" heat away? that's what i read in a write up on those, somewhere.
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stiletto
99 Sentra SEL platinum gold w/ HS headers and CAI, custom b-pipe, arospeed exhaust, magnecor 8.5mm wires, eibach pro-kit, courtesy nissan frt and rear STB, smc short shifter, greddy knob, jwt clutch, k&n crankcase breather, 17 deg. timing, EL indiglo HVAC, clear corners and taillights and not a single stock bulb.
Joined
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4,699 Posts
Whatever you say Mr. Matt, but I am standing by my observations that my car brakes better with my upgrades. And NO, it's not *JUST* the pads. I used my stock pads with my X-Drilled rotors and I did not experience as much fade as I had before with the stock rotors. Then I put on Axxis pads and it felt even better.
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-Nuke the bastards-
Stormy
'98 SE(R) w/ HS CAI, HS G3 Header, Custom 2.25" Exhaust, JWT S4 Cams, UR Pulleys, KYB AGX's, Eibach Spings, Courtesy F&R STB's, ES Mounts, ES control arm bushings & shifter bushing (NI), Brembo X-Drilled Rotors w/ Axxis MM Pads, 205/50 Pirelli P700z's
www.WhiteLineRacing.com
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-Nuke the bastards-
Stormy
'98 SE(R) w/ HS CAI, HS G3 Header, Custom 2.25" Exhaust, JWT S4 Cams, UR Pulleys, KYB AGX's, Eibach Spings, Courtesy F&R STB's, ES Mounts, ES control arm bushings & shifter bushing (NI), Brembo X-Drilled Rotors w/ Axxis MM Pads, 205/50 Pirelli P700z's
www.WhiteLineRacing.com
the only cross-drilled rotors that dont crack are the ones on porsches
because they arent cross drilled at all, they are cast that way
cross drilling reduces the tensile strength of the rotor at the edges of the holes
slotting has the advantage of not doing that
but their effectiveness diminishes as you wear the rotor down (the slot gets shallower)
in both cases you create a sharp edge that eats your pads rapidly
your best bet would be to go to cryo-treated OE-equivalent rotors manufactured by a major brand (brembo, wilwood, etc)
and go with some good performance pads (NOT metallic ones like axxis metal masters, they eat your rotors up)
go with something like performance friction Z rated, or porterfield R4S pads
and get some good.. high boiling point brake fluid... like motul
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the performance pad has a higher heat capacity before they lose their friction properties.. so yer brakes are gonna get much hotter with them.. so you want brake fluid that isnt gonna boil as easily
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Shawn
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current car(s):
1989 Acura Integra LS
1997 200SX SE-R
1973 Super Beetle
Next car:
AE86 Corolla GT-S or
S13 Nissan 240SX (16V DOHC, not 12V SOHC)
because they arent cross drilled at all, they are cast that way
cross drilling reduces the tensile strength of the rotor at the edges of the holes
slotting has the advantage of not doing that
but their effectiveness diminishes as you wear the rotor down (the slot gets shallower)
in both cases you create a sharp edge that eats your pads rapidly
your best bet would be to go to cryo-treated OE-equivalent rotors manufactured by a major brand (brembo, wilwood, etc)
and go with some good performance pads (NOT metallic ones like axxis metal masters, they eat your rotors up)
go with something like performance friction Z rated, or porterfield R4S pads
and get some good.. high boiling point brake fluid... like motul
the performance pad has a higher heat capacity before they lose their friction properties.. so yer brakes are gonna get much hotter with them.. so you want brake fluid that isnt gonna boil as easily
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Shawn
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current car(s):
1989 Acura Integra LS
1997 200SX SE-R
1973 Super Beetle
Next car:
AE86 Corolla GT-S or
S13 Nissan 240SX (16V DOHC, not 12V SOHC)
All the Porsche drivers I know (911s, 944s, 968s) remove their stock cross drilled rotors for driving schools. I don't care how you make the holes in the rotors, you can't keep cracks from happening. True, casting them into the rotor helps. Cryo treating x-drilled rotors help. But you cannot eliminate cracking on x-drilled rotors.
BTW, these Porsche drivers usually take those stock x-drilled rotors on track one time. After they crack them from a weekend of abuse, they find out that replacements cost ~$800.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
BTW, these Porsche drivers usually take those stock x-drilled rotors on track one time. After they crack them from a weekend of abuse, they find out that replacements cost ~$800.
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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck
"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
I got my brembo cross drilled/slotted rotors for $110 $15 more than solid rotors. They look nicer as well, so I said why not?
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Kris94G20™
"clears and stickers, the best bang for your buck"
The Beginning.
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Kris94G20™
"clears and stickers, the best bang for your buck"
The Beginning.
ummm.. i'd love to see a 944 or 968 with stock cross-drilled rotors.. i certainly havent yet
only street-driven porsches that have x-drilled rotors stock (in the USA)are the 911 and boxster S
and you are right.. they will crack
but im mostly agreeing with you
i was just planning on getting brembo OE-sized rotors for my integra and using porterfield R4S pads...
of course thats gonna go in the project CRX when i start it (after the 240SX with DET swap of course)
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Shawn
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current car(s):
1989 Acura Integra LS
1997 200SX SE-R
1973 Super Beetle
Next car:
AE86 Corolla GT-S or
S13 Nissan 240SX (16V DOHC, not 12V SOHC)
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