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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a set of Eibach Pro-Kit springs to put on my classic. Is there any reason these won't work OK with my stock struts? I don't have the know-how to put them on myself and can't afford right now to buy struts too. Can I go ahead with the springs or should I wait until I can get struts, and if so what do you recommend? Remember, money is a factor.

TIA
 

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Garage Queen: 91 VG30DETT
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251 Posts
the stockers will work as long as they are not worn out, but you can still put them on even if they are. i was rolling on my stocks struts for a while and i felt that the wheels were bouncing off the ground like mad at high speeds. would you rather spend money on labor? why don't you at least get a service manual first and check it out if you can do it yourself. it's not hard at all. save your money for the struts.

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91 SR20DE
97 H22A
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, to be honest I have looked at doing it myself - I have a buddy that has spring compressors, and I'm not afraid of the work, but I want to make sure the camber etc. is adjusted correctly, so that my two-month-old tires do not wear out prematurely, and of course when you take the wheels off and put them back on they must be aligned again. Or am I wrong? I've been wrong before... Help me out here, y'all.

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1994 SE-R Super Black
POP Charger, STB, 15" rolling stock, more to come...
 

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Garage Queen: 91 VG30DETT
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251 Posts
i don't think you can adjust the camber without a camber correction kit. you cannot even adjust the camber on a stock car. it is rarely that the car will be badly misaligned after the suspension work. you should expect a very minor misalignment, camber and some other problems when you lower a car since you're taking the car out of factory specs. i wouldn't worry too much, cuz eibachs doesn't lower the car that much anyways.

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91 SR20DE
97 H22A
 
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Bro, I used to do it without spring compressors. You can do it. Its so simple its pathetic. Just make sure you have all the right tools. Buy the book and have at it. Have a buddy help you out too.
Most likely you will have to get it alligned. I have, however, installed springs in my past cars and not needed an alignment.
Good luck!!

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-BUDGET RACER
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Seeing red
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2,084 Posts
I've removed struts and springs from my car more than I want to. It's not difficult, but like any install, it could turn into a PITA if you get a lot of seized nuts and bolts.

Air tools are optional, though they make things easier. A vise is a must, but once I swapped a spring by myself while I sat on the ground and held it with my legs - that took forever.

Use a spring compressor, at least for removal. I've read where ordinarily competent monkeys on the SE-R List shoot the spring off into a garbage can. Don't spend big bucks on a hot suspension just to skimp on a $35 spring compressor.

Get an alignment after installing lowering springs. Don't let a monkey tell you otherwise. A little change in negative camber won't kill you, but out-of-whack toe will chew up tires.
 

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You like that, dontchya?
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Hmmm...I don't know...if it were me, I would wait til I had the shocks that could control the springs. The Pro-Kits aren't that much stiffer than the stock springs, but they still are progressive. Even if your shocks are in good condition now, you would probably have to replace your shocks in about 10-20K miles from the extra abuse the Pro-Kits will give them (i.e., do the same job AGAIN). Plus, your ride probably won't be so hot since the stock shocks don't have the damping to control stiffer springs.

The install really isn't that bad. A couple bolts on bottom, a few more on top, and voila! The shock assembly is out. Use a GOOD spring compressor or take it to a shop to undo the assemblies. It'll take them like 10 mins to undo all 4 and they might not even charge you if you explain your situation.

IMHO, save your $$$ for some good shocks, do things right so you only have to do them once. AGXs are good and they're $389 a set shipped.

Camber is non-adjustable on our cars (unless you got camber plates or those cheap crash bolts
) Use the poor-boy method of getting some negative camber when you tighten your shock assemblies down. Your toe will change so definitely get an alignment soon afterwards.

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Antonio Garcia
91 SE-R w/ lots of stuff
Bay Area, CA
 

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employment whiplash, NC
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">A
little change in negative camber won't kill you, but out-of-whack toe will chew up tires. </font>
The conbination of the two is absolutely devestating. I originally had -2.5 camber and about 1/8" total toe out. I burned through a brand new set of AVSi in 5 autocrosses. I set the toe to 0 and left the camber the same. 3 autocrosses later I have tires that still look new. Moral: Toe out will destroy tires faster than negative camber.
 
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