how hard is it?

what do i need to do it?

is it practical (keep in mind i can't afford camber plates right now) and can i add camber plates later on down the road?

Easy,

I used a drill, but a die grinder would work better.

You can gain some decent camber using this method. You can also try crash bolts instead of this - this way is basically free though.

Josh

 

you can also try slotting your strut itself, slot the upper hole for a little more adjustment, that way you don't have to hack up your car

 

okay, like how much material to actually remove? how big of a slot to cut? how would i slot the strut itself?

 

okay, like how much material to actually remove? how big of a slot to cut? how would i slot the strut itself?

http://www.se-r.net/suspension/slotting_struts.html
old school

 

OK, now see, that is not really all that helpful. Some actual pictures would be nice. That way you know what you're hacking into, and how to do it. I have heard of some people hacking where the strut mounts to the body, but I haven't seen it, so I would not know where to start.

 

Does this pic help ??

Where the arrow points, slot the hole it goes through in the strut (not the hub). It needs to be in an arc to follow the movement...

If you do this, make sure you tighten the bolt up very tight so it doesn't slip....

 

yes, make it wider side to side, not just bigger diameter.

 

cool, but as i read the SoloII GCR that is not legal, unless i am interpretating this wrong. i thought they meant the top where the strut mounts to the body, as in engine bay.. correct me if i am wrong.

 

Best place to slot is on the top hole of the strut like the guys are saying. Camber plates are cool but they change the roll center of the front end by moving the top of the struts closer together in the negative direction.

 

Brian,

When I did my NX Hyperco's/AGX's, I took a rotary burr (carbide from Harbor Freight - CHEAP!) and slotted about 3/32" to the outboard side of the top strut mounting hole where it bolts to the knuckle. In order to keep the geometry right (since the arc of travel is at the ball joint, NOT the lower bolt) I slotted the lower mounting hole about 1/16" on the same side. That way the strut stays at the OEM angle.

I also slightly slotted the shock tower holes to the inboard side using the same burr (it doesn't take much!).

I achieved just under 2 degrees of camber by the time I got the camber even on both sides. One side, as it turns out, did not need the shock tower slotted. These tweaks are so small they are prolly within the OEM allowances. Lessons Learned: if the car pulls after your mods, it pulls toward the more positive camber side. If it pulls, it ain't toe - Toe doesn't pull.