http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=89186&highlight=stock+redline+sr20ve

 

Miko had me set my digital6+ to 7500.

 

rev the engine to what the stock ecu is set to, i dont recommend you take it past 7800 if you have stock cams. Stock ECU will tke you to 7500.

:biggthump Once you do the swap, post up pics!!!! :biggthump

 

stock tach will read 7500 rpm's but the actual rpm's will be lower then that since the stock tach sucks. The VE stops making power at about 7200 rpm's but people shift a bit higher to stay in the power band. stock cams, id say 7500 rpm's max

 

Just out of curiosity what does the stock tach read when you shift illr? I take it to about 7700 for this exact reason.

 

Just out of curiosity what does the stock tach read when you shift illr? I take it to about 7700 for this exact reason.

when i had the SAFC2 hooked up, the tach read 7500 rpm's but the SAFC2 read somewhere along the lines of 7250-7350 IIRC. How accurate was the SAFC? im not 100% sure but i know the stock tach can be off anywhere from 200-300 rpm's up top if not more.

 

Yeah it depends, but my current SE-R has a pretty good tach. 2-300 sounds right. Shifting well is more important, but I have a B&M. That junk is tight.

Mine is at 8000, and it doesn't like that. 7700 on the stock tack is the most i do.


How accurate is the S-AFC? What wire did you get the rpm signal from? ECU is apparantly the most accurate.

 

when i had the SAFC2 hooked up, the tach read 7500 rpm's but the SAFC2 read somewhere along the lines of 7250-7350 IIRC. How accurate was the SAFC? im not 100% sure but i know the stock tach can be off anywhere from 200-300 rpm's up top if not more.

I guess it is pretty accurate. My RSM reads the same thing as your SAFC2. So, that means the stock tach is being a little generous.

 

the safc takes the signal directly from the ecu.. If i had to guess how accurate the safc was in terms of rpm reading, id say its +-/50 rpm's. This is all based off previous experiences though

 

Friend of mine made a consult for me - when I do data recording and take it to 7500 on the stock tach, the consult data recorder shows about 7300-7350. at full tilt in first and second, of course, the tach is a bit slower.

 

I reved my STOCK block sr16ve to 8200 rpm every day. that was the limit set on the stock sr16ve ecu

 

1.6 is not the 2.0. 16 rather obviously has lower reciprocating mass, and also has different cams and valve springs.

 

we swapped a 2.0 into the same car, and ran the 2.0 to the same rpm with no ill affects

 

friend of mine runs his sr20ve to 8300rpm with the sr20ve crank its happy there - but higher revs and you can notice the difference between that crank and an sr20det crank and cradle setup... he's left his rev limit at 8300 for now...
put the crank and cradle in and theyre happy to rev higher...

and so far as i know the head is identical between sr16ve and sr20ve apart from valve springs and cams... everything else is the same between them... and the spring rates arnt what you might expect....

 

cb, other than some pretty neat sound, your friend might not be getting much out of the engine at that point - and 8300 is getting kinda close with the stock springs to having some traffic problems betwixt the valves and the pistons when the springs start to fall behind, altho we've had one apart up here when a friend's kid missed a shift and other than a busted chain follower it looked pretty good. I thought I remembered (but I'm kinda senile) threads on here mentioning that the 1.6 spring rates were higher. Yup, that 8cw crank might take a bit more torque to spin up, but I've heard its harmonics are not so destructive up there above 8k. I understand the 20v has an 8cw crank. Sigh.

 

Ok Why on gods green earth would you rev to 8000+ on the stock SR20VE? Power takes a nose dive after 7200.

 

soyy - my bad - just read what i said and realised i left out the "and 16ve cams as well" bit...

its a 20ve engine - 16ve cams - chipped ve computer to change the vvl/fuel/ign points and it revs to 8300 (owners choice of redline).
that engine only has the factory ve crank, comparison engine was the same apart from the crank from an sr20det...
crank and cradle engine reved smoother a the top end - factory ve crank started to "stress" when revving high...

I guess what i was waffling on about was if you were going to do a ve engine - get the sr20det crank and cradle to let it rev happily

As for valve springs - I heard some interesting things recently about the rates between 16ve, 20ve and 16veN1 and they wernt what i expected... and it was from people i'd trust who hav been building engines for nissans longer than the 30+ years ive been alive and they had tested the springs from those engine all side by side and tested em...

And as a useless aside - the titianium retainers that you can buy from one of the cam companies for ve engines - they are very nice - they are nice and light - however if you can find a set of genuine N1 titanium retainers - you WILL want them ... Much lighter (milled vs forged items?)

 

What interesting things did you hear concerning the spring rates of the 16ve, 20ve and 16veN1?

 

What interesting things did you hear concerning the spring rates of the 16ve, 20ve and 16veN1?

With my limited knowledge I'd assume that a higher spring rate would be LESS likely to allow 'float' than a lighter spring; but I could be wrong with my assumption. I'm SURE that there are experts out there who could help with this?

The SR20VE springs are, with my assumption, LESS LIKELY to 'float' as thay are STIFFER than the rest.
Which is why I DIDN'T change them on my re-build.
The next stiffer are the SR16VE and lastly the N1s.

Please let me know if I am incorrect with my assumption.

 

Bigtoe? Dre? Onyxeros? Thanks andeman, even though it's an assumption. At least it is something to think about. Usually with more aggressive cam profiles stiffer spring rates reduce the valve float at high rpm. Some brave souls have done the N1/20ve spring combo and have had success.

 

Hmmm, Amdeman, I don't quite get where your coming from, reading your post my understanding is you are assuming that sr20ve springs have a higher spring rate than an N1 spring?! then you contradict your self later on in your post.....
I was under the impression that sr20ve and sr16ve springs are the same - same part number in nissans database....and that the N1 spring has a higher rate, which you'd expect, and want to use for a higher reving engine.
not sure where you get a "Lighter spring" from? do you mean the spring rate or the atual physical weight of the spring, as cb_drift is talking about the retainer being light weight, not the spring......
anyway, hope that was clear enough??
cb_drift, I too be interested to hear about the info you have on the different springs.....

 

Usually with more aggressive cam profiles stiffer spring rates reduce the valve float at high rpm.

That was my understanding as well...

Some brave souls have done the N1/20ve spring combo and have had success.

Like ME!

I now run the Stage4 FCams and have yet to change from the SR20VE springs that I was using WITH the N1s.

It throws out an interesting message to those who choose to blindly follow these 'experts'!

 

Hmmm, Amdeman, I don't quite get where your coming from, reading your post my understanding is you are assuming that sr20ve springs have a higher spring rate than an N1 spring?!

Yes they DO; otherwise I would have changed them to suit my N1 cams.

I was under the impression that sr20ve and sr16ve springs are the same - same part number in nissans database....and that the N1 spring has a higher rate, which you'd expect, and want to use for a higher reving engine.

I was told that the SR20VE was HIGHEST rated spring, after being ACTUALLY tested.

not sure where you get a "Lighter spring" from? do you mean the spring rate or the atual physical weight of the spring, as cb_drift is talking about the retainer being light weight, not the spring......

I meant a lighter 'rated' spring.
Not the actual physical wheight of the spring.

I hope that this clarifies it somewhat...

 

Hm - if Nismotoy is correct that the part number for the 1.6 and 2.0 springs is the same #, which it's hard to imagine he's not, they're gonna be the same springs, guys. Period. I thought the N1 springs were stiffer too, but I'd never seen the numbers. There's no debate anymore.

Yes, of course, higher rate springs will enable higher revs w/o float, all else being equal. The other end of the stick, however, is increased wear - but that may be negligible as long as the rates aren't extreme (whatever that might be).

 

nevermind